New Wheels

[DaveeeB93 9]

I'm looking at getting the 3SDM 0.01 18x8.5 et 35 in Black on 225/40/18's. Firsty does anyone know if this is a good fit and will be pretty flush with the fender?

Also with the bigger wheels adding more weight, will the handling and performance be affected so much that I'll be able to notice a difference?

[Paul 442]

good choice on wheel, size and offset. Yes they'll sit pretty flush, you may need camber/toe arms to tuck the rears under.

Tyre choices is spot on.

It is very unlikely you'll be able to tell the difference in terms of weight and handling. Some sensitive people can, the majority can't.

[DaveeeB93 9]

23 minutes ago, Paul said:

good choice on wheel, size and offset. Yes they'll sit pretty flush, you may need camber/toe arms to tuck the rears under.

Tyre choices is spot on.

It is very unlikely you'll be able to tell the difference in terms of weight and handling. Some sensitive people can, the majority can't.

Great thanks Paul, just what I wanted to hear  

Sorry I'm new to the alloy scene and have very limited knowledge, I've always kept them stock before. Why might I need to adjust the camber and is it something you can do on the stock suspension?

 

[Lauren 2259]

You'll probably find you'll want to lower it about ten seconds after putting the new wheels on. You just seem to notice the arch gap more with different wheels. But you don't have to of course. 

You can get camber bolts for the front, they are cheap about £25 a set. You can also get offset bushes of adjustable lower arms (more money but easier to adjust) for the rears. Sure having a bit more negative camber looks better, but more particularly so on the front helps eliminate understeer. As you've not changed the suspension though you can of course just bolt on the new wheels and be done. It's up to you of course. 

In terms of differences due to the bigger wheels, it really depends a lot on weight. If they are significantly heavier than stock wheels then you will notice a decrease in acceleration, braking and turn in. I can easily tell the difference between my lightweight 17's compared to the heavier stock wheels (1.8kg heavier). The trouble is an increase in unsprung mass has much more of an effect than it does on sprung weight as wheels rotate of course. Many say they don't notice the difference and you may be one of those. It just depends how sensitive you are to such things. 

[DaveeeB93 9]

1 hour ago, Lauren said:

You'll probably find you'll want to lower it about ten seconds after putting the new wheels on. You just seem to notice the arch gap more with different wheels. But you don't have to of course. 

You can get camber bolts for the front, they are cheap about £25 a set. You can also get offset bushes of adjustable lower arms (more money but easier to adjust) for the rears. Sure having a bit more negative camber looks better, but more particularly so on the front helps eliminate understeer. As you've not changed the suspension though you can of course just bolt on the new wheels and be done. It's up to you of course. 

In terms of differences due to the bigger wheels, it really depends a lot on weight. If they are significantly heavier than stock wheels then you will notice a decrease in acceleration, braking and turn in. I can easily tell the difference between my lightweight 17's compared to the heavier stock wheels (1.8kg heavier). The trouble is an increase in unsprung mass has much more of an effect than it does on sprung weight as wheels rotate of course. Many say they don't notice the difference and you may be one of those. It just depends how sensitive you are to such things. 

I am looking at getting the Tein Flex A coilovers too in the next few months. Do these allow you to adjust the camber without needing to buy the bolts?

Hmm it's so hard to call without testing heavier wheels. I'm also thinking as a more lightweight alternative, the Rota Titans 17x8 ET42 on the same wheel. These are apparently only 7.7kg compared to the 3SDM's 10.5kg~ weight.. I do prefer the look of 18s but I still like the Titans although I'm guessing they won't be very flush with the half inch smaller rims and higher offset?

[DaveeeB93 9]

They do the Titans in 17x9 although I presume I'll need at least 235+ on the wheels?

What about 17x8 et42 225/45 on the front and 17x9 et42 235/45 on the rears, will this work and look better?  

[Mike 458]

Flex As will let you do camber on the front, not on the rear. Fronts you can get a little more than -2 degrees

[Paul 442]

You'll need camber adjustment arms for the rear methinks.

[Lauren 2259]

Yes, Flex A's as Mike said will allow easy camber adjustment on the front, but you'll still need offset bushes or adjustable lower arms for the rear to set the camber right. 

I really wouldn't recommend a wider tyre on the rear unless you love understeer. It won't do the handling balance any good. A square setup is better, i.e., same sizes all round. You really want an offset of 35-38 on an 8" rim. 225's are okay. I tried these on my 17x8 wheels. The trouble is you get more sidewall flex, so I went back to 215/45/17's as it felt much tighter. Up to you of course. 

[MartinT 514]

You can get most Rotas in 17 x 8 ET35 (mine are) which fit perfectly.

[DaveeeB93 9]

11 minutes ago, MartinT said:

You can get most Rotas in 17 x 8 ET35 (mine are) which fit perfectly.

I can't seem to find any Titans in lower than a 42 unless you change to a 9j

I've found the Rota Force's which do a 35 and look similar. What Rota's are on yours, the Blitz?

[DaveeeB93 9]

51 minutes ago, Lauren said:

Yes, Flex A's as Mike said will allow easy camber adjustment on the front, but you'll still need offset bushes or adjustable lower arms for the rear to set the camber right. 

I really wouldn't recommend a wider tyre on the rear unless you love understeer. It won't do the handling balance any good. A square setup is better, i.e., same sizes all round. You really want an offset of 35-38 on an 8" rim. 225's are okay. I tried these on my 17x8 wheels. The trouble is you get more sidewall flex, so I went back to 215/45/17's as it felt much tighter. Up to you of course. 

That makes it easier, atleast I don't have to buy all new wheels and can just stick with the 215's for now

[MartinT 514]

5 hours ago, DaveeeB93 said:

I've found the Rota Force's which do a 35 and look similar. What Rota's are on yours, the Blitz?

Yes - Blitz.

[gavin_t 184]

I run rota pwr in 18x8.5 which are 10kg with 225/40 tyres. 

Can notice a difference between the stock wheels when I switch them back over and immediately drive them back to back. Not massively detrimental though. Makes the steering a bit heavier too. 

I prefer this feeling on track and hard driving but do keep thinking about downsizing to a set of light weight 17's.....

[Church 209]

Worth also mentioning offset. Often if larger wheels were bought for looks, often they are also of lesser offset to make them more "flush", thus increasing scrub radius, thus heavier steering. My "butt dyno" also is rather dull, but immediately after remounting tires/switching over wheels i felt difference between OEM & similar sized but 2.9kg lighter per corner wheels. Mostly how they felt/worked over road defects. Acceleration also felt a bit briskier, but so little, that it might be due placebo or post-purchase rationalization effects. Car accelerated slowly in stock NA form before and so did after :).

[DaveeeB93 9]

Think I've come to a conclusion. I'm not willing to sacrifice slightly better looks for slightly worse handling/performance. The Konig Oversteers  17x8 et35 I believe are just less than 9kg so no heavier than stock and should fit pretty well & I prefer the look of these over the Rota's .

Has anyone ordered off wheelbasealloys before? It says offset "various" but can't find anywhere to select which offset I want?

https://www.wheelbasealloys.com/alloy-wheels/konig/oversteer/black/17-inch/toyota/gt86/2012-present

Edit: Or not they don't have them in et35

[DaveeeB93 9]

Ordered the JR21's 17x8 et35. The right size I was after, fairly lightweight and for the money I can't complain. I'm not expecting amazing quality and strength but will be an improvement on looks anyway,

Next on the list is the Coilovers.  I'm looking to decrease the wheel arch gap and improve the handling. Can I just buy the Tein Flex A/Z's and lower by about 20mm to do this or do I have to purchase/adjust anything else along with them?

[Paul 442]

57 minutes ago, DaveeeB93 said:

Ordered the JR21's 17x8 et35. The right size I was after, fairly lightweight and for the money I can't complain. I'm not expecting amazing quality and strength but will be an improvement on looks anyway,

Next on the list is the Coilovers.  I'm looking to decrease the wheel arch gap and improve the handling. Can I just buy the Tein Flex A/Z's and lower by about 20mm to do this or do I have to purchase/adjust anything else along with them?

Buy the Flex A's, you'll need camber adjustment arms for the rear I think. Front should be fine at that size.

[Church 209]

Flex A/Z-s have own camberplates in set. I'd throw in rear LCAs to them to add camber adjustment also to rear. If handling improvement was meant on track, i'd more concentrate on tire choice/alignment/and at least very basic improvements of brakes, eg. better brake pads and brake fluid of higher boiling temps.

[DaveeeB93 9]

1 hour ago, Church said:

Flex A/Z-s have own camberplates in set. I'd throw in rear LCAs to them to add camber adjustment also to rear. If handling improvement was meant on track, i'd more concentrate on tire choice/alignment/and at least very basic improvements of brakes, eg. better brake pads and brake fluid of higher boiling temps.

I probably won't be taking it on track, not anytime soon anyway. I just want the coilovers to lower the car & hopefully slightly improve the handling and the ride comfort

[gavin_t 184]

If only lowering 20mm you wouldn't really need to adjust the rear camber. 

I am lowered 20mm and my rear naturally gained -1degree negative camber from lowering which matches my front setup and drives spot on. 

 

Good choice on wheels by the way :-)

[DaveeeB93 9]

45 minutes ago, gavin_t said:

If only lowering 20mm you wouldn't really need to adjust the rear camber. 

I am lowered 20mm and my rear naturally gained -1degree negative camber from lowering which matches my front setup and drives spot on. 

 

Good choice on wheels by the way :-)

Brilliant, I don't want to have to mess around too much with adjusting camber and be spending a few hundred on rear LCAs if I can avoid it.

Thanks!  Got any ideas which 17s you might downsize to if you do?

[DaveeeB93 9]

Fun DIY job (maybe not fun) wrapping the centre dash and Gague hood in alacantara. Saved a good amount of £££’s and looks so much better than the cheap plastic 

 

[gavin_t 184]

21 hours ago, DaveeeB93 said:

Brilliant, I don't want to have to mess around too much with adjusting camber and be spending a few hundred on rear LCAs if I can avoid it.

Thanks!  Got any ideas which 17s you might downsize to if you do?

Should be fine. Just get the alignment check as soon as you have the coilovers setup and go from there :-)

 

Thinking konig dekagram as flow formed so light and strong and come in 17x8 

Just awaiting a UK stockist to give me a firm quote as it's new out and no one's has stock yet.

Need to decide asap as my 18s could do with new tyres.

[Daninplymouth 61]

On 17/08/2018 at 12:52 PM, gavin_t said:

Should be fine. Just get the alignment check as soon as you have the coilovers setup and go from there :-)

 

Thinking konig dekagram as flow formed so light and strong and come in 17x8 

Just awaiting a UK stockist to give me a firm quote as it's new out and no one's has stock yet.

Need to decide asap as my 18s could do with new tyres.

If you do get an answer back could you post it on here. Like the look of these and would be interested to see the price