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If I remember correctly most of the active systems respond at best in about 100 milliseconds. A big problem is most require the piston to have completed a full stroke before they can respond.

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2 hours ago, Lucas@PartBox said:

It's not active, but there is a pre-set memory system that will allow you to change the settings by pressing a button. You can make your own settings as well and then have different profiles so depending what road you are on, you just push a button and it'll change. 

Apparently they do a G-force module for it which makes it active...

As far as EDFC goes, it seems to improve roll and such, but how much of that is placebo is hard to tell without actually testing. Pitch under acceleration and braking is definitely reduced though.

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9 minutes ago, Rich said:

Apparently they do a G-force module for it which makes it active...

As far as EDFC goes, it seems to improve roll and such, but how much of that is placebo is hard to tell without actually testing. Pitch under acceleration and braking is definitely reduced though.

Oh yeah, that's an optional extra, but it's not on mine. It's £80, not sure how accurate it is. Won't much better than the EDFC

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4 hours ago, Ade said:

I'll likely get massively flamed for saying this but I dont think the active part of the EDFC is worth it anyway. They are only bog standard stepper motors that have a very slow response time . As you turn into a corner the weight transfer will already have happened by the time it firms up the damping. 

Consider yourself well and truly flamed. :P

The response time isn't slow at all, not sure why you think that. In effect I think it really helps the handling be more progressive which is exactly what you want. Weight transfer doensn't happen instantly, so I do think there is enough time for it to respond. 

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5 hours ago, Mike said:

Pretty sure that's what @KevinA thinks too. Funnily enough, one of the days at Curborough my quickest time (that day) was set when I left it in manual mode by mistake...

Yes Mike that is right, I have my own manual settings that I can play with very easily via EDFC. But IMO the active is too slow, I spent a full track day playing with it and it reacts after you have made the inputs resulting in not so good handling. Probably will suit some people but not all.

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10 hours ago, KevinA said:

Yes Mike that is right, I have my own manual settings that I can play with very easily via EDFC. But IMO the active is too slow, I spent a full track day playing with it and it reacts after you have made the inputs resulting in not so good handling. Probably will suit some people but not all.

Yes, it is reactive as that's how it works. Maybe I'm just well used to it. Though I guess the conversation here has just focused about how it is on track for some reason, whereas the benefits on the road are more obvious in that there is some compliancy in the ride, but when you push the car into a corner it firms up, which is what you want and also the variance in stiffness dependent upon speed. 99% of my driving is on the road and a lot of it is just day to day trundling around, so that is a factor for me. I don't use the speed settings on track, just the lateral and longitudinal G force settings which means I can have it going stiffer in the corners depending upon lateral load, though I have found from driving a few other cars, remembering Keith's on his old HSD setup being the worst where the car really bit when you got it sideways at high speed. 

The other thing which I haven't talked about with you, is how much you have deviated from the standard settings in regard to how much the dampers stiffen per 0.5g increase. Stuff like that can make a difference. I spent a good four months playing around with mine till I found a balance I was happy with. I haven't changed it since then. 

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I think next track day I'll have to do some comparisons of with and without the G-adjust. I mainly like it for road use though for the reasons Lauren has said.

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38 minutes ago, Rich said:

I think next track day I'll have to do some comparisons of with and without the G-adjust. I mainly like it for road use though for the reasons Lauren has said.

I don't do many road miles so can't comment much, I'm sure Lauren is right in that respect.

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10 hours ago, KevinA said:

I don't do many road miles so can't comment much, I'm sure Lauren is right in that respect.

I guess what I did, was really focus on what was a wickedly good daily commute in places, trying lots of different settings over a period of about four months. I did play with the car a lot on the road and found that ramping up the increase of the damper rates more than what what it comes from with Tein seemed to help. Maybe it's more that if it stiffens up to a great extent when it reacts, you notice that difference more. I got it to a point where I found the car really easily controllable on the road, both in medium and high speed corners and a certain 'drift' roundabout at J18 on the M6! All this I then tranposed to the track, finding that I didn't use the speed settings but just used lateral G instead starting it off around 40 on the stiffness settings which gave a working range of 32 (IIRC), so it'd allow for that initial weight transfer on track whilst keeping it nice and constant when you sit the car down. For me anyway, it feels like my car is very easily controllable as I like to move the car around and will frequently use four wheel drifts often with a tendency to oversteer. It could of course be that I get used to it, but I've tended to find my car more progressive in how it handles. 

Whilst one trackday is all well and good, you may want to experiment a bit more, Kev and play with the amount of increase, especially so for the lateral G. It could also well be that having always had static setups that the different feel of an active (or reactive) setups takes some getting used to. That could also be a factor. 

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Kev, I left mine in manual mode to begin with just to get the damping how I wanted it. I then read through the manual a few more times and used the other modes with speed and G settings. After talking with Lauren and changing from Teins base settings it does work really well. I have three settings I tend to use and my wife can tell the difference and she is not a petrol head. 

It's a case of trusting the system and let it do what it's designed to do. 

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Got my Cosmis Racing XT-206R ( 18x9 ET33) in Black Chrome wheels today. It was a struggle to fit them in the car :D now I just need to get some tyres. T1Rs all around i think. Can't complain about the performance for £250/set

fUWhz7b.jpgtv33VPz.jpg

2V7PyvT.jpg

yKA7EJG.jpg

 

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7 hours ago, Lucas@PartBox said:

Got my Cosmis Racing XT-206R ( 18x9 ET33) in Black Chrome wheels today. It was a struggle to fit them in the car :D now I just need to get some tyres. T1Rs all around i think. Can't complain about the performance for £250/set

fUWhz7b.jpgtv33VPz.jpg

2V7PyvT.jpg

yKA7EJG.jpg

 

Would you be so good as to weigh them please.

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I've been slacking.. 

So, I Managed to get Smoked Valentis, but after having them for a few weeks I thought they don't look right on my car because it's black. I didn't want it to be too blacked out, so I started looking for Red & White valentis.

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 @Lowe was nice enough to swap with me! He wanted smoked ones and I wanted red :)

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After that I got my Cosmis Racing XT-206R wheels 18x9 on Cusco (stock size) Adjustable Dampers and they fit with no rubbing what so ever. 

I went for 225/40R18 Toyo Tires T1Rs are I'm very happy with them. They behave really good - though I can only compare them to stock Primacys. It's a better, softer and much more grippy tyre. The difference is massive, I didn't realise how much I had to slow down before just to get around a corner, but it's a piece of cake now! People say that there is a new compound of T1Rs and that it's made in Taiwan or China, but my tyres still say Made in Japan, so I take it it's the "good" tyre.. Either way I'm happy, and my mate with the Chaser (above) went for Nankang NS2Rs and he's really happy with them too, obviously you need to be aware of what you have and if you put semi-slicks on your car and then drive in the rain like a **** you can't expect miracles and I think that this is where all negative comments come from - people not knowing what they have.

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I got some tyre chalk/pen and added 20bhp all round. I only did it because I felt like it was too black still, now it's got a bit of contrast. 

Sitting well on Whiteline Lowering Springs (25mm drop all round). It could do with being a tad lower (5-10mm) but I'd struggle to retain practicality, not to mention I don't even have a front lip yet, so 25mm is ideal if you want to be sensible IMO:) 

I have upgraded the front discs as well, I've got 295mm National Auto Grooved discs, it significantly helps the cooling compared to the normal solid OEM discs. 

https://www.part-box.com/PBD964G-national-auto-front-brake-discs-pair-grooved-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz?search=gt86 front grooved discs&description=true

Before:

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After:

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I haven't done anything major since, just a little bits to the interior

Tomei Gear Type SS Gear Knob;

https://www.part-box.com/tf101c-0000b-tomei-duracon-type-ss-shift-gear-knob-m12x1-25-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-impreza-ford-focus-rs-mk3?search=tomei type ss&description=true

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Cusco Drift Button - works like a normal hand brake button if you keep the spring that is inside of the lever - if you want to lose the spring, this will work pretty much like a hydro, just pull up and down without pressing the button; 

https://www.part-box.com/692014AR-cusco-handbrake-drift-button-red-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz?search=692014AR&description=true

Jixh5vR.jpg

And this one is from yesterday. I was at Birmingham Wheels raceway as a mental support to my mate drifting in his MX5 :D 

bMQpW5x.jpg

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1 hour ago, Lucas@PartBox said:

I have upgraded the front discs as well, I've got 295mm National Auto Grooved discs, it significantly helps the cooling compared to the normal solid OEM discs. 

https://www.part-box.com/PBD964G-national-auto-front-brake-discs-pair-grooved-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz?search=gt86 front grooved discs&description=true

How do they help cooling? Unless the internal vanes are much improved, which I doubt at this price, then the difference in heat capacity would be minimal. Surface grooves help pad bite and material clearing not cooling ;)

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3 minutes ago, knightryder said:

How do they help cooling? Unless the internal vanes are much improved, which I doubt at this price, then the difference in heat capacity would be minimal. Surface grooves help pad bite and material clearing not cooling ;)

They do bite better & the car does last longer without overheating.Where I drive it makes just enough difference, but yeah, it may not be enough for a proper track use.

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2 hours ago, Lucas@PartBox said:

They do bite better & the car does last longer without overheating.Where I drive it makes just enough difference, but yeah, it may not be enough for a proper track use.

To be fair, you really won't know until you get out on track. About the only time I've experienced fade on the road was on some Alpine descents, which simply don't occur in the UK. 

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Months have passed and I've put a few more bits on to my car. Nothing too major.

1) Got a Cusco oil filter as the HKS one that I had needed changing - HKS Oil filters should be changed every 6k miles!

2) Mishimoto Oil Filler cap just for engine bay bling

3) Injen EVO2000 induction kit. It's rather big piece of kit and an ultimate bitch to fit. It took me hours last night because bumper removal is necessary to install the scoop. It's a crazy job that involves loosening radiator support bracket and lots of other bits.

Photo-07-09-2018-8-08-08-am-1024x768.jpg

The reason I went with this kit over HKS air intakes is because Injen promises big power gains.. 15bhp & 11ft/lbs without mapping the car. I had to disconnect the battery when installing this intake, so when I started the car up, the idling was really rough to a point where it would even cut off. ECU needs some driving time to get used to it. I checked AFR and MAF sensor readings and everything seemed alright. Went for a drive on my lunch break and it's good now. The induction noise sounds pretty damn cool and it feels like it's pulling stronger above 4,5k RPMs but that's about as much as I can say for now. I will have it booked at DynoDaze to see the gains or losses! :unsure: I have had it on the dyno there before with the stock intake so I should have accurate reports. 

I will be changing the spark plugs soon, I will do it myself and I am really not looking forward to it but it's gotta be done! I chose Iridium HKS spark plugs with a reasonable heat range for me. Some people go 50HL, but 45HL will do as I am N/A.

Agency Power cat-less manifold will installed soon too, and then it will be just a matter of having it mapped by Tuning Developments

Bride ZETA III bucket seat will be going in at some point before the next show season as well, I'm just waiting for the seat rail to arrive now.

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I've had the original Injen kit since I ordered my car new. On the rollers it did seem to show a gain of around 10bhp over what other stock cars were doing at the time. We think it was because it leaned out the air/fuel mixture. Obviously once a car has been mapped it negates this advantage really. It looks huge. I'd worry that if you wanted to fit say a TD manifold, it would get in the way, but I can see you are fitting something else. 

I honestly do not see the point of using anything other than OEM spark plugs or ignition components on an NA car. I can't see how you will gain anything with the HKS plugs.  I'd rather have the assured reliability of OEM considering how difficult they are to get at. I've just had OEM plugs fitted again at my 120K service. They work fine for me. I also (forgive me!) see no point in fitting anything other than OEM when it comes to oil filters. I won a couple of HKS oil filters, years ago, but wouldn't fit them, so sold them on for fiver each. 6K is ridiculous really. Same with HKS oil I won, I literally can't give it away. 

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22 minutes ago, Lauren said:

I've had the original Injen kit since I ordered my car new. On the rollers it did seem to show a gain of around 10bhp over what other stock cars were doing at the time. We think it was because it leaned out the air/fuel mixture. Obviously once a car has been mapped it negates this advantage really. It looks huge. I'd worry that if you wanted to fit say a TD manifold, it would get in the way, but I can see you are fitting something else. 

I honestly do not see the point of using anything other than OEM spark plugs or ignition components on an NA car. I can't see how you will gain anything with the HKS plugs.  I'd rather have the assured reliability of OEM considering how difficult they are to get at. I've just had OEM plugs fitted again at my 120K service. They work fine for me. I also (forgive me!) see no point in fitting anything other than OEM when it comes to oil filters. I won a couple of HKS oil filters, years ago, but wouldn't fit them, so sold them on for fiver each. 6K is ridiculous really. Same with HKS oil I won, I literally can't give it away. 

We'll see what it does. I am not expecting much from it. I was just curious more than anything because I couldn't really find a reliable dyno report anywhere, not even on the U.S. forums when it comes to this EVO2000 kit. As far as other things go, I get the aftermarket stuff cheaper than I could get the OEM as I'd have to go to Toyota and buy them at retail, so again, I am not buying them because I think they are better, I can just get it cheaper and they are definitely not worse, expect maybe the HKS oil filter :D

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