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Kirsty80

Help with wheel offsets

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1 hour ago, Kono said:

Also on the topic of upgrading pads for both daily and light track use, any recommendation? I have no intention of changing the calipers any time soon and have no issue with the current breaks but its yet to see a track. Same question for tires on the stock wheels, everyone just seems to say Piolet sport 4's 😕

For a basic and cheap upgrade EBC Yellowstuff are a good start or you could go for PFC Z rated. Both of these pads will be completely fine with daily and with light track use. 

Once you start doing multiple track days, it'll be best if you upgrade to something more serious, Carbotech XP8 or Project Mu Club Racers for example. 

As for tyres, I personally run PS4's, but other popular choices are Yokohama V105, Continental Premium Contact 6 & Falken Azenis FK510. There is also the Maxxis VS5 although I'm not sure this is available in 215/45/17. 

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6 hours ago, Kono said:

Also on the topic of upgrading pads for both daily and light track use, any recommendation? I have no intention of changing the calipers any time soon and have no issue with the current breaks but its yet to see a track. Same question for tires on the stock wheels, everyone just seems to say Piolet sport 4's 😕

There is similar problem as with winter or summer tires. Both have different pros & cons and don't do well at not intended use. Track pads have high operating temps and stand well against track braking abuse reliably braking even if rotors are gloving red, but due that high temp range, when they are cold, they brake less (some still more though) when cold and rather then bed in (transfered material from heated pads as layer onto rotors) they scrub off bedded layer in few days .. ending with noise issues/loud squealing like idiot at every traffic light, increased wear of pads & rotors, and many of track pads dust more (like washing wheels every two days more).

Street pads have much lower operating temp range, thus noise issue is rare, as they usually bed in well even with light average driving, they dust less, but one can easily overcook/glaze/crumble them if heavy abused on track.

There are pads in-between, some call "hybrid" use pads .. but they are like all-season tires, jack of all trades, master of none. Somewhat still usable on street, and may take light tracking (like if not paired with very grippy tires, and for reasonably short 10-15min sessions). For example ferodo DS2500. If you plan to visit track, suggest to change also brake fluid to high-boiling-temps one, eg. as budget one motul rbf660, if more money, PMU G-Four 335, Endless RF650, Castrol SRF, Brembo HTC 64T. Higher end/boiling temps fluids are more hygroscopic though, and by absorbing moisture they degrade, with boiling temps dropping from new ("dry") to lower ("wet"), so i guess worth changing/flushing at least once per year.

Best possible choice imho is to have two specialized sets and switch them prior/post trackday. If one has needed wrenches, hydraulic jack, some brake cleaner, brake lube, around 1-2h job. This way one can get pros at intended use, and not suffer from cons for wrong use. For example i switch between ds2500 for street (but have used them before also for light track. Funny that i can get them even cheaper then OE pads) and CSG C1 for track (not suggesting purchase, work very well, but with high cost + shipping + import cost, they run very expensive).

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13 hours ago, Church said:

There is similar problem as with winter or summer tires. Both have different pros & cons and don't do well at not intended use. Track pads have high operating temps and stand well against track braking abuse reliably braking even if rotors are gloving red, but due that high temp range, when they are cold, they brake less (some still more though) when cold and rather then bed in (transfered material from heated pads as layer onto rotors) they scrub off bedded layer in few days .. ending with noise issues/loud squealing like idiot at every traffic light, increased wear of pads & rotors, and many of track pads dust more (like washing wheels every two days more).

Street pads have much lower operating temp range, thus noise issue is rare, as they usually bed in well even with light average driving, they dust less, but one can easily overcook/glaze/crumble them if heavy abused on track.

There are pads in-between, some call "hybrid" use pads .. but they are like all-season tires, jack of all trades, master of none. Somewhat still usable on street, and may take light tracking (like if not paired with very grippy tires, and for reasonably short 10-15min sessions). For example ferodo DS2500. If you plan to visit track, suggest to change also brake fluid to high-boiling-temps one, eg. as budget one motul rbf660, if more money, PMU G-Four 335, Endless RF650, Castrol SRF, Brembo HTC 64T. Higher end/boiling temps fluids are more hygroscopic though, and by absorbing moisture they degrade, with boiling temps dropping from new ("dry") to lower ("wet"), so i guess worth changing/flushing at least once per year.

Best possible choice imho is to have two specialized sets and switch them prior/post trackday. If one has needed wrenches, hydraulic jack, some brake cleaner, brake lube, around 1-2h job. This way one can get pros at intended use, and not suffer from cons for wrong use. For example i switch between ds2500 for street (but have used them before also for light track. Funny that i can get them even cheaper then OE pads) and CSG C1 for track (not suggesting purchase, work very well, but with high cost + shipping + import cost, they run very expensive).

Once I get a new set of wheels i think they will be just for track/ sunnys days and car meets, so i can use the standard ones for winter and everyday run around. At the moment the car came with 2 winter tyres on the front and 2 absolute no brand garbage on the rear (i know its bad thru the fact i can peel the rubber off with my fingers which concerns me o.o). As for the pads and fluid I'm not sure if I could be hooped with the effort of constantly changing them , but i didnt notice that the OE pads are more expensive than the yellow stuff etc pads which made me wonder if they where any good. Yet again thanks for all the advice...getting a small list of things to check out and buy now :D! cheers

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While first limit on track usually are completely stock brakes, if/when you'll take tracking more often, next thing to mod worth doing - performance alignment (mostly more negative camber, especially front). Otherwise with stock alignment there is imho excessive understeer, a bit lacking grip and high tire outer sides wear. More camber helps with all that, making tire contact patch flat even with side-Gs mid turns taken high speed and tire sidewall flex. As minimum one or two camberbolt sets for front, if even more camber  and in rear aswell, then one can throw pedders eccentric topmounts or powerflex front camber bushing in addition to camberbolts, and aftermarket rear adjustable LCA. Stock front camber is 0degrees, rear -1.1dg, "track" alignment would be nice with eg. -3dg front camber and -2.5 rear. If tracking is very rare, like just 1-2 per year, and most tire wear happens on street, not track, then maybe something interim, -1.5dg front, -1.1 rear like stock (this should be easily attainable with just single camberbolt set).

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I'd suggest once you upgrade the brakes and are still planning to do trackdays grab an ODB reader and keep an eye on your oil temps.

Stock brakes tend to suffer fade before your oil gets beyond 130C, however once you drop some new pads in, oil temps are your next big worry.

Instructions on how to setup Torque Pro with Oil Temp readings.

 

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