Bias pedal box installation.

[Guest]

I need to fit a biased, floor mounted pedal box to my project car.

I am not sure the ABS will work with this as it has G meters inside it I think? To make the ABS work, I would need to re-route the plumbing to change it to a front/rear split rather than the stock diagonal split.

I have done some experiments today using parts fitted to my no2 car, here are the results..

Disconnect ABS Module completely. Loss of power steering, all driver aids and ABS. Engine would not rev above 4K, possibly due to the fact the DI will not work with the ABS removed, or so someone once told me??

Connect spare ABS module complete but obviously no brake lines are connected. No lights on the dash, until 20 feet down the road when the ABS and traction lights illuminate. All else works fine except ABS and driver aids.

Remove computer from ABS module and connect this into the loom. Same result as above, but ABS light and traction control lights illuminate immediately.

In all these guises, the wheels will lock very easily, due to the massive servo and good brakes I guess? This is not an issue in my application as the whole purpose is to fit a bias adjustable pedal box.

So.. does anyone actually "Know" if there are G meters in the module? If there are, I cannot keep the stock ABS with a custom pedal box.

[DanJ 374]

I don't know the specifics of the this ABS/ESP system so can't comment on your question directly, but I think you could achieve what your looking to do a slightly different way and retain the stock pedal box and ABS/ESP module.

 

A lot of cars now have load sensitive rear brake pressure modulation using a mechanism similar to the headlight levelling linkage, so I'm thinking of a pair of variable orifice valves that limit the rear brake pressure downstream of the ABS module, it should be possible to connect these into one single cable dial adjuster so you can change brake bias from the drivers seat as with a conventional bias bar.

[Guest]

Hi Dan,

 

Due to the design of the roll cage and future engine plans, I am unable to keep the stock pedal box or clutch, hence the need to fit a floor mounted pedal box.

 

I have now welded up every hole in the bulkhead to make the engine bay totally fire proof and have ordered a Tilton 3 pedal underfoot cylinder pedal box from America. I think I'll be losing the ABS, but keeping the power steering and all the revs?

 

I may need to go Motec eventually??

[Lee 82]

When we fitted an AP pedal box to our race car we lost ABS and servo assistance - trust me when I say that losing both of these was not an issue for me personally. Brake was very easy to modulate on the pedal.

 

One issue to be mindful of is using the correct means of linking your accelerator pedal to the throttle body. First off we tried a linkage to the standard mini pedal - this didnt work out for us but might do for you - im not sure.

We had a linear potentiometer extra so made up a linkage for that:

We werent too happy as there wasnt a 'failsafe' with this set up. If you were to brake something at the wrong time the throttle could potentially be stuck at 100% open.

 

In the end we settled on a celesco string pot:

 

And this is it mounted:

 

If the string was to snap the throttle would 'fail' in the zero position. 

[DanJ 374]

Hi Dan,

 

Due to the design of the roll cage and future engine plans, I am unable to keep the stock pedal box or clutch, hence the need to fit a floor mounted pedal box.

 

I have now welded up every hole in the bulkhead to make the engine bay totally fire proof and have ordered a Tilton 3 pedal underfoot cylinder pedal box from America. I think I'll be losing the ABS, but keeping the power steering and all the revs?

 

I may need to go Motec eventually??

 

Ahhh, I see! Hopefully there's someone with enough knowledge of the electrics out there to help.

[Guest]

I have now ordered Motec for the project car. Ecutek will still be in my life for no2.

Ecutek are not interested in helping getting rid of CAN or emulating the signals. Motec already have it.

After speaking to some racers in the US, the only way to go if you need ABS in a race car with front rear bias is to go for aftermarket ABS which can cost £10k!!

[DanJ 374]

Not their core business I guess, the control systems guys at work are forever cursing the vagaries of different OEMs who decide not to follow the published CAN protocols.

 

Just had a quick look at the Motec site, you should be able to add a strain gauge sensor to the lever for the shifter on your Samsonas sequential and have full on clutchless flat shifts :-)

 

You could buy a lot of go faster bits for £10k.....and that's before you even get into calibrating it.