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GT86Jay

Driveshaft Inner-CV Problems on Lowered GT86s

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So I might be writing this thread a little early but thought i’d make this anyway as it’s probably worth noting for some owners.

 

It seems that the GT86 / FRS has a common fault of destroying Inner CV joints on cars which are lowered. Because you change the geo of the driveshaft / Diff when lowering the car.

 

I'm now experiencing this. And in lots of research, forum reading and speaking to various people thought i’d collate all my findings into this post and hopefully make it easier for people to reference if they come up with the problem.

 

It seems fairly common in the US, probably due to the large number sold and the nature of the modding community over there. It’s known as ‘The clicking’ on US forums.

 

It starts off as a Faint clicking sound on the rear left hand side of the car under heavy acceleration. Eventually getting worse and worse until it sounds louder and clicks nearly all the time under any acceleration, deceleration and cornering. Then it will destroy itself completely.

 

I've had my car lowered for around 35k miles now. And seems to be common on high mileage / daily cars that are seen a lot of bumps / road use.

 

A few things I've found out and noted here:

  • Power increase doesn't affect it, it only speeds up the process.

  • Stock Power cars on lowered suspension still have the problem.

  • It only ever seems to be the left hand side

  • Toyota will replace it under Warranty. (I’ll find out if this is true on Thursday)

  • It’s a perfect clicking sound related to wheel Speed.

  • Only under acceleration, not cruise speed.

  • If its started clicking, it will break!

 

I’ll try and get a video of the sound next time I take the car out.

 

Here are a couple of the forum posts:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1501079

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=897624

 

I’ll update my findings and let you know what Toyota say on Thursday.

Also this isn't as a result of lending my Driveshaft to Fensport to use in their 450hp Race car at the TSS event! Because it’s the other side.

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Thanks for the info Jay, any ideas how much you need to lower by before it affects you?

 

Seems any amount, just depends how quickly it turns into a problem. Any amount of lowering will put more stress on the inner CV. 

 

In the US there seems to be anything from 20mm - 35mm and they're failing. 

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I started a thread a while ago regarding raising the diff and subframe to correct the driveline angle somewhat.

The restriction is the proximity of the prop shaft in relation to the fuel tank. I think the diff can be raised a total of around 25 to 28mm.

This could be achieved by lifting the subframe on its mounts. The top clearance between frame and body is 9mm.The bushes on the nose of the diff are 16mm high, above the casing, so these could also be modified to allow the diff to be raised in relation to the subframe, but the rears would also have to be modded.

So, if you do all this work, and lower your car by 25mm, your driveshaft geometry is pretty much stock and your suspension geometry thinks it's only lowered by 16mm.

I shall be doing this to my car, so you might be interested toi see it all come together...

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Mine was fine, suddenly just started. Because ive just made the exhaust quiet again with a resonator its much more noticable.

Hooeing Toyota will diagnose and replace under Warranty! Only upgrade seems to be the £900 600hp DSS ones.

Apparently the BRZ tS in Japan comes with stronger ones! But no one knows the part numbers to order.

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Hmmm mine is just coming up to 16k miles and I have a service due in May so will keep an ear handy when driving to see if anything develops!

Surprised with it being such a well known problem they haven't released the stronger ones.

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Hmmm mine is just coming up to 16k miles and I have a service due in May so will keep an ear handy when driving to see if anything develops!

Surprised with it being such a well known problem they haven't released stronger ones.

 

 

The BRZ tS does come with stronger ones! It seems the thoughts in the US is if you're lowered. It will develop eventually. 

 

I've not heard much of it being a problem in the UK. The noise i'm hearing may not be this. I've self-diagnosed it with symptoms and thoughts. I'll confirm on Thursday. 

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What kind of ticking/clicking sound is it Jay? Almost like a clock ticking Or is it quite quick in its bursts? Be good to hear the feedback you get from Toyota on Thursday, if it is I'll ask about the condition of mine after it's service in May.

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What kind of ticking/clicking sound is it Jay? Almost like a clock ticking Or is it quite quick in its bursts? Be good to hear the feedback you get from Toyota on Thursday, if it is I'll ask about the condition of mine after it's service in May.

 

Almost like a metal / metal clicking. Perfectly synced with Wheel Speed. I'll try and get a video next time i'm out but maybe difficult with exhaust / road noise through a phone. 

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No worries fella, let's just hope they will fix it under warranty and won't try and blame you for the problem due to it being lowered!

 

The problem is, that it is due to being lowered.  :huh:  I'll see what they say! 

 

Really it doesn't affect dealership level as they want to carry out the work (They get paid for it) 

 

Theres some secondhand ones around for £200 and not to hard to fit. So there are options. 

 

I'm trying to source the BRZ tS ones at the moment. They seem a reasonable middle of the road compared to the £900 DSS ones! 

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I guess it will all be dealer dependent too! Some dealerships will be slightly sympathetic whereas others will be useless!

Secondhand ones do look tempting but I guess you are just installing a ticking time bomb again as they will just go pop like the originals a bit further down the line.

Whereabouts are you looking for the updated Subaru ones?

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I guess it will all be dealer dependent too! Some dealerships will be slightly sympathetic whereas others will be useless!

Secondhand ones do look tempting but I guess you are just installing a ticking time bomb again as they will just go pop like the originals a bit further down the line.

Whereabouts are you looking for the updated Subaru ones?

 

Yeah, but mine have lasted 30k miles. So its a stop gap until they go again. Especially if they are under warranty. If warranty doesn't replace them i'll probably get beefier ones.

 

Links to the tS review articles mentioning beefier driveshafts..... But can't find anywhere to order them! 

 

http://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-japanesecars/subaru-brz-ts-full-spec/28333

 

http://www.most-expensive-sports-car.com/subaru-brz-ts-specification-revealed/

 

http://en.responsejp.com/article/2013/10/23/209139.html

 

 

"poly-bushed STI suspension linkages, beefed up driveshafts"

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BRZ tS shafts are thicker but from the research I've done so far, the joints themselves are no different...

 

That sucks. Don't really need thicker ones, not going to be twisting any! Just the inner CV joint needs to be stronger and take the extra Geo. Next jump up seems to be £900 Driveshaft Shop ones which will be massively over-spec for my build.

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I'll sell mine for £550 the pair and donate the money to Fensport as part payment for some DSS ones..

They're new and shiney and have only done 150 very gentle miles.

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