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Nige's GT86

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I thought I'd start a blog on what I am doing with my Toyota GT86. I bought the car on September 1st this year, with a plan to modify the car to death. I previously had a new Porsche, which I was scared to take apart because of its value vs. Warranty.. I discovered that I enjoy modifying cars more than just driving them. The GT 86 was the perfect choice in my opinion, I believe it is a canvas that you can throw money and time at all you want to.. 


I came across this picture...
 
photo.jpg

That was it.. my mind was made up.. I wanted a white RB v1.

After covering only 100 miles in the car, I decided it was time to start stripping things.

First things first, I needed to find a way of using normal axle stands without damaging my sills, so I designed and made these little nylon beauties...

Jackstands1.jpg

They sit on the jacking point of the sill and allow the front or rear to be raised by any amount without causing any damage to the car whatsoever.

Jackstands.jpg

Jackstands2.jpg

So, we begin getting our spanners out.....


Toyota(Subaru) apply a thick black sticky underseal to the inner wheelarches and all over the suspension components. It is like the thickblack aftermarket underseal you can buy in tins. Why??? This stuff hasn't been used on production cars since the eighties???


Any way, it had to go. There's no way I'm working on a car and getting this shitty crap on my hands and everything I touch!! So, now we have this... a clean repainted wheel arch.

Wheelarchpostpaint.jpg


I really don't know why they put the tar all over the arches, it's not as if they don't already have the thick rubberised sealant everywhere, just like all the other manufacturers use???

So, on to the mods.. I decided the first thing to be done would be the subframe bushes, and while I'm there the diff bushes also.


I selected the Super-pro bushes for the subframe and Whiteline for the Diff.

Bushes.jpg

They are like chalk and cheese... The Whiteline kits come beautifully packaged with instructions and also an online fitting guide. the Super-pro comes with nothing, and their website is useless. There are three different types of bush in the set, you are left to guess which goes where. I think I've worked it out, but really, at £180 a set, I shouldn't have to "Think I've worked it out"!! I don't think I'll be buying any more Super-pro for this car??


I found the Subframe was covered in weld spatter so I started chipping it off. There were also signs of rust coming through the welds, it looks like they don't clean the welds up before painting? I decided that while this was out and the old bushings were gone, I'd give the frame a bit of a makeover..


Etch primer on the bare metal...

Subframeprimed.jpg

Then some primer, then this....

Subframepainted1.jpg

Subframepainted.jpg

I also decided to paint the underside of the car as it was all going to look so pretty under there.

Undersidepostpaint2.jpg

Undersidepostpaint1.jpg

Now we have a nice background for the Perrin 3" Cat back and Ohlins coil overs I have waiting to go on.

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just one point you guys should know about... bearing in mind my car is new, having covered only 100 miles..

 

These are the vertical bolts which hold the nose of the diff up onto the subframe...

gt86bolts.jpg

Not good!!! I cant believe the manufacturers go to all the trouble of spraying green slime everywhere and painting on 1980's underseal, but allow this corrosion to propagate. Imagine the damage that would result if these bolts snapped due to simply rotting away!!

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Thanks for all your replies guys. I was actually expecting a load of "Why"? responses and also "Do you know you've knackered your warranty" replies... I guess this is the wrong site for that kind of     comment;)
 
Anyway, about these bloody bushes... I've looked at them for a while now and am not convinced I have the right idea about their location. I'm gonna mail Super-Pro and see what they have to say?

Bushes1.jpg
 

From the top, there are steel insets with different sized bores. I assume the smaller bore goes to the rear as that is how the OEM bushes were, although one of the smaller OEM bushes has a slot rather than a hole?

 

Next we have the bushes themselves, left to right, 3818, 19 and 20. we can see that there are four off 3818 and two off of each of the others.. 3818 is "plain", with no counterbore in the face, whereas the other types have counterbores of different sizes.

 

Next we have the original Toyota "washers" and spacer. Again, from left to right, the large orange bracket is the front lower "washer". The long bolt goes up through this bracket, through the bush and into the bodyshell. The middle , silver piece is a spacer that sits on top of the front bush and the right hand orange piece is the rear lower "washer".

 

Now, the recess in bush 3819 fits the raised ring on the silver spacer beautifully and the recess in 3820 fits the raised portion of the "washers" beautifully, but there's only two of them, so, do they fit front or back of the subframe??

 

The Whiteline bushes do away with the silver spacer and have a recess over the raised portions of the front and rear lower "washers". I really do wish I'd bought the Whiteline bushes now!!

 

If you have any ideas, or know of a link to "How to fit" these things, please let me know...

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I'm confused just looking at the picture, unsure if anyone has fitted them on here themselves. Perhaps Mark/Adrian may be able to answer your question. Good thread though, keep posting as it's looking interesting so far :)

 

I don't think anyone is going to question why or warranty. I'm sure you're aware the warranty is void but hey ho it's your car and it does look 10x better I admit. For the most of us, I think we are too lazy to do it haha!

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Did you think about seam welding the subframe of does it not really need it...?

Looks good otherwise, I think steveoexige from the other side has upgraded his subframe bushes but not sure which brand he used...

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Did you think about seam welding the subframe of does it not really need it...?

Looks good otherwise, I think steveoexige from the other side has upgraded his subframe bushes but not sure which brand he used...

 

The subframe is seam welded from stock. I did consider bracing it, but wasn't sure about clearance elsewhere.

 

Steve has indeed fitted the whiteline packing bushes rather than the full bush. Adrian has also used the packing bushes.

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Well, Super-pro have prepared a set of instructions for this kit now.

 

It would appear you ditch the silver spacer over the front bush, the 4 off 3818 go in all four upper positions, 3819 is lower rear and 3820 is lower front. i was correct in my assumption that the smaller bore bsleeves go to the rear of the subframe.

 

I'll get some pics up later when i fit it all up.

 

I took the diff bushes out last night which was very easy, so we're all ready to bolt it all back together now. i intend to get a feel for this mod with the rest of the car standard, as so many naysayers comment on increased NVH. I think the noise will be outweighed by the increased feeling through the seat and stiffer control.

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So, tonight I have been busy for a short while fitting up the bushes and getting the subframe back in. With a little application of the supplied grease all the bushes and sleeves pressed in with no more than firm hand pressure.

 

Here's the subframe with the bushes fitted. You'll also notice I've fitted the collar for the Whiteline KDT 924 rear diff bushes. Its is basically a pressed steel plated ring, required to support the right hand rar diff bush.

Subframeplusbushes.jpg

And here we can see the Subframe placed upon a blanketed trolley.. why you ask, well, all will become apparent.

Subframeontrolley.jpg

The subframe is easily rolled into position on a trolley, then a jack can be used to find the centre point so the subframe can be lifted into position flat and true to the mountings in the bodyshell. I have read horror stories of people stripping the threads in their body by not getting this step right. basically, if you cant turn the bolt by hand, some thing is wrong.. STOP!!!

Subframeliftedintoposition.jpg

Once aligned correctly, the bolts can be screwed all the way in, by hand and the jack and the trolley can be removed. now, how pretty does this look!!!

Subframefitted.jpg

Subframefitted1.jpg

Yes, I am a big tart who loves clean bright colours....

Tomorrow the diff will be going back in with the new Whiteline bushes. Then the car will get all bolted back together, stock for a comparison study with just these bushes replaced.

Thanks for looking...

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That does look lovely :-) it will be interesting to see how much more NVH you experience with everything else standard...

out of interest, how much do the whiteline bushes raise the diff by??

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That does look lovely :-) it will be interesting to see how much more NVH you experience with everything else standard...

out of interest, how much do the whiteline bushes raise the diff by??

 

Thanks for the compliment...

 

The whiteline bushes dont raise the diff at all, you obviously remember my question previously on this forum? i thin k the couple of raising bushes i've seen have been of Japanese manufacture? I'm not too sure how much you can move the diff up though, as there doesnt apear to be much room up there???

 

I am also looking forward to bexperiencing the increased noise levels. i actually think they'll be negligible?

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Hehehe! Confused.com :-) yes, I can't imagine it would be able to move much but you know what those crazy Americans are like...

I don't think the noise will increase much but I don't have any experience with harder bushes on a car that doesn't deafen you in the first place - i.e. my mini was noisey as hell beforehand so the bushes made no appreciable difference to noise...

good plan to put it all back stock and see what happens :-)

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So, moving along with this little project... the rear suspension is all back in and the car is now back on its wheels.

Here's a shot of the completed rear assembly..

IMG_2628.jpg

Not much of the orange can be seen, but hey, I know it's there.

I had today off, so decided to play on the lathe and make this little stopper..

IMG_2629.jpg

It is designed to get rid of the stupid pipework that plays engine noises into the cabin.. Here it is fitted..

IMG_2632.jpg

On a separate note, I now have the rocket bunny kit for my GT86, so will be posting images of that in the next few days.

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Good work. I'm guessing mega wide wheels will be on the horizon for the Rocket Bunny kit. 

 

No Lauren, I'm doing this on a budget so will be using 125mm spacers on the rear and 100mm on the front. Sorry... I forgot I've grown up lol....

 

At the moment I plan on using those lovely Enkei Rs5RR or whatever they are, in 18x10 and 18 x 11 respectively. No doubt this will change as time goes on.

 

I just cant stop playing.. i was refitting the front bumper tonight, then stopped and instead removed the bumper reinforcement part to measure it up and make one out of seamless roll cage tubing. I want to open up the full mesh area and not see a steel fabricated part across the top. I also want maximum airflow in there for the intercooler, oil cooler, air con and radiator.

 

Did i hear you say "2 steps forward, 3 steps back"? You're right!!

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Interesting. I wonder what difference changing the track like that will make to how the car handles? 

 

Those spacers sound huge to me, with the width of rims you are using are you sure you need that much?

 

Though you are putting on wide tyres so there will be a lot of grip. 

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I was joking Lauren. I thought you would have picked up on that?  I always laugh when I read stories about people building cars with wide arches and using spacers to fill the void!!

If you look over on the FT86 forum, there is a whole thread on what spacers are required with what wheels. It would appear that no one makes the correct offset for the Rocket Bunny kit rear, so I believe 25mm spacers are required. Some people also change to 114.3mm on 5 to get a better choice of wheels? I have never used spacers and always thought I never will, but the time has come....It's funny, no one in the States has even mentioned widening the track, but I guess drive shafts become an issue? It's certainly something worth considering if shafts with the correct splines and, say 25mm longer are out there?

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It's not just driveshafts it's also the wishbones which would need to be extended, which likely makes it not worth doing. Plus I wouldn't go altering the track from front to rear, so not a good idea for so many reasons. 

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It's not just driveshafts it's also the wishbones which would need to be extended, which likely makes it not worth doing. Plus I wouldn't go altering the track from front to rear, so not a good idea for so many reasons. 

 

Yes Lauren, a full new set up would need to be fabricated, including new front wishbones. Many cars have been built over the years with widened track front and rear, it usually makes the car less stable, much like shortening the wheelbase, but makes changes in direction easier. I think one of the "squarest" set-ups ever was the Lancia Stratos. Some of the Gp 5 cars of old also had very wide track compared to production models, Lancia Montecarlo, BMW 3 series, Zakspeed Capri....

 

As you have said, it is a LOT of work. I've done it twice and would think carefully before doing it again...

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