CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 Any takers on what is the break bias of the car. Front to rear percentage? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 Sorry meant to spell brake! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 Well, it'll be more on the front of course as they do most of the work. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 Yes. I agree. Wanting to uprate breaks. Do you think fronts are enough with just pads rear? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 Yes. I agree. Wanting to uprate breaks. Do you think fronts are enough with just pads rear? Upgraded pads and fluids will be more than enough of an upgrade. Front will do, rear pads will help but not necessary. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 Cheers mate. Thinking fronts complete and pads rear. On a budget mate lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 Cheers mate. Thinking fronts complete and pads rear. On a budget mate lol What do you mean fronts complete? If you're on a budget just do pads all round. TBH, I don't see much point in "upgrading" discs anyway. Slotted discs will just wear the pads quicker and you'll gain very little, if any, extra in braking performance. I'd rather have good solid discs any day. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 I was going to go with drilled discs. So complete in terms of callipers, drilled discs, pads and brake lines. Yes I'm on a budget but kind of up there, in terms of I want a lot if stuff within a certain price range. Ie f.i, brakes, oil cooler, uprated oils, manifold and HFC front pipe. Its within the spending limit but there's a few other things I'd like if you know what I mean. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 7, 2014 From my research drilled rotors are the best in overall performance, cooling and wear. Why else fit them on gt3's. You know your stuff knightrider, views on drilled? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 Discs not 'rotors' what are they? I wouldn't go for drilled discs because of their propensity to crack. Obviously YMMV. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LFA 68 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 For road use , I'd just do pads all round and maybe fluids/lines...... or leave as stock. Regular track use, front kit, rear pads to compliment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 I'm on the same page as Lauren. Drilled discs are a definite no. What make you think drilled and/or grooved are any better than plain discs? If you only track occasionally you'd never notice the difference. If tracking is your thing then go for a decent BBK but the reason for that is because they can take the sustained track abuse better. A good quality plain disc (like OEM) is fine. With discs its all about losing heat, so you want good internal vanes and as much pad contact as possible. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 I'd say good pads are more important than anything. Look at the chemical compound makeup of the pad. Something like performance Friction or Stop tech will be great. I went slotted / dimpled disc to stop pads from glazing. Couple of stretches of roads round my way that used to cook the brakes to the point that they were unsafe on stock setup. Slotted discs stop the pads from glazing and allow the gases to escape on long brake periods. Since I've had slotted discs haven't had any problem. Ran them for 15 minutes constant at Lydden hill and felt no brake fade or weakness. They may have been smoking a bit when I came off but still felt strong. Although saying that I've just ordered the Brembo Front BBK. As after seeing Pitman's and Keith's setup want to fill my wheels out a little bit. Got plans to go 18" in the summer and want to fill the wheels a bit more. But even then i'm probably only going to go with the Stoptech Rear and Stoptech Pads on the rear. For now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Twigman 93 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 What's so wrong with drilled discs? My motorbikes have all had drilled discs. I've never known of or heard of a bike disc cracking. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 What's so wrong with drilled discs? My motorbikes have all had drilled discs. I've never known of or heard of a bike disc cracking. There have been stories of due to the heating and cooling moisture in tiny cracks / manafacturing defects can cause the disc to fail all together under extreme conditons. I've also known somebody discs shattering due to a frosty morning! I don't think it's a problem if you spend money on top end drilled discs. But wouldn't touch cheaper drilled discs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 Slotted discs stop the pads from glazing and allow the gases to escape on long brake periods. Since I've had slotted discs haven't had any problem. Ran them for 15 minutes constant at Lydden hill and felt no brake fade or weakness. They may have been smoking a bit when I came off but still felt strong. Glazing happens when heat build up occurs. Apparently the gas build up is an issue of the past, all decent new compounds shouldn't have this issue so I'd much rather run well ventilated solid discs than grooved. Grooved discs don't actually ventilate the pads, that's what the vane on the inside of the disc are for. Discs are essentially a heat sink to get heat out of the system, if you take metal away from the disc you're removing surface area that the pad can transfer heat. Brake fade happens when the heat gets too much. Better fluid to prevent boiling and a more resistant pad will win hands down. Twigman, bike brakes are much better ventilated being on an open wheel. Remember cracking occurs when you get a heat differential. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 There's a reason why nearly every single Big Brake Kit and Race car has slotted discs though. No matter how good the pad there will be dust and gases generated under heavy braking. So whilst a solid disc will probably be fine in 90% of road uses, I think if you plan to take it on track. You'd want slotted to prevent glazing of the pads. All depends how you use your brakes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 Wow thats a lot of info. Info we all can benefit from. It makes me wonder why the top sports cars and super cars use drilled discs. Either way the I drive I could not fry any brake kit. So now I'm looking at a kit that will just make my car look better and obviously stop better on the road. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hilander 12 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 I am researching brake upgrades as well...couldn't decide between slotted/drilled, but found this and really liked the design:http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece-rotor-Open-Slot-Subaru-BRZ-Scion-p/2312.htm It looks like you could do incremental upgrades as well, discs, calipers later if you want to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 If you want looks with better stopping power do what i'm currently doing and that's fit the 2008 WRX Brembo Kit to it. Pretty much bolt on replacement. Bigger discs. Much nicer calipers and will fill alloys better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 Sounds good jay. Where can I get a set. Might save me a bomb Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 Oh what pit are they. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 Ebay. You need WRX / STI Brembo Kit for the front. and 2008+ brembo kit for the back. But it's unsure how much fits etc. I've ordered kits. to find out. You're still talking £400 just for front calipers. But a damn sight cheaper than a BBK for GT86. Rears are a little more difficult. They're 4 Pot Brembo Calipers. A couple of images for idea. http://www.tune86.com/sites/default/files/pictures_photos/2013/02/do_boy_scion_frs_07.jpg http://cdn.mkimg.carview.co.jp/minkara/usercar/000/001/104/476/1104476/p2.jpg?ct=884f1fb1d2c4 And remember you need good discs and pads with that caliper kit! Caliper itself isn't that important. I'm only doing caliper upgrade for looks and to fill my wheels a little more! They're 326mm discs over 290mm stock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ShinyBRZ 16 Report post Posted May 8, 2014 Cross drilled and grooved discs look cool. So I'm told. That'll be the primary reason why most "upgrade" kits are cross drilled and grooved. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
