mike-p 116 Report post Posted March 29, 2014 I've just swapped my rotors and pads after giving them a lot of abuse last weekend at Snetterton. When I got the pads out there was almost zero pad material and some very uneven disks. I've replaced them with Stop Tech grooved rotors and Ferodo pads following the excellent guide from Speedy. I found a nice lump hammer loosened the old rotors, it's a pretty straightforward job apart from shearing one of the wheel studs getting the tyre off. It took just over an hour before I was out testing the results, not bad for a late afternoon bit of work. The brakes will take a little while to really bed in, but the initial results are positive. Thanks for a very good guide Speedy! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy 32 Report post Posted March 31, 2014 You are welcome. There will probably be another post on this guide at the weekend along the lines of 'How to try and stop your Carbotech pads from squeeling loudly enough to wake the dead'.. 1 rob275 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted April 6, 2014 I don't know what I was so worried about, just checked my front and rear pads down the drivers side and they've still got 2-3mm on them....probably guna keep them on till a week before BHP, then I'll stick on the new Stoptechs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted April 7, 2014 How many miles do you reckon you'll need to bed in a new set of pads? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted April 7, 2014 Just in case it's useful, here's my hosted copy of the workshop manual. Full official method of pad, disc and caliper replacement and checks. https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx0baxvljdl1f1u/2012-GT86BRZ%20service-shop-manual.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted April 30, 2014 Finally changed my pads....could have kept them a lil longer but I've got BHP and the CAT Training thingy coming up so thought I'd get them changed.....took me just over 3 hours to do Quick question though, both my rear inner pads have this metal bit sticking out but only one of my new rear pads have this, not an issue right? Is it just a low break pad warning thingy that screeches when too low? Or for something entirely different? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted April 30, 2014 Do you mean on the top left? Are you replacing with non-OEM pads? Its usually just to help position and remove them and not all aftermarket items have it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted May 1, 2014 Yeah, the long bit sticking out and yeah, non-OEM (stoptech to be precise). If it was to help remove them, you'd think they'd be on all the rear pads like they do on the front, but these were only on the 2 inside pads (OEM) and the stoptech ones only had 1 of these. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 1, 2014 Keith, my non-OEM ones didn't have them on all either. But had no issues so far. One thing I did notice was the inner pad was slightly different to outer in that the nibbles were in a slightly different place on the outer two to stop the caliper from sitting on them. Make sure the piston and the front of the caliper is sitting flush with the pad and not on a raised nibble. 1 Keethos reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peterk 1 Report post Posted June 1, 2014 From disc pictures elsewhere the BRZ has, along with other Subaru's two threaded (M8) holes in the disc "hub". Insert two bolts and tighten and off pops the disc no need for hammers/bars etc.. I just wish alloy wheels had similar holes. 1 Keethos reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keelerad 256 Report post Posted July 26, 2014 easiest way too free off stuck wheels is to partially undo the wheel nuts and slowly lower the car onto a block placed half way under the tyre Should give enough twist to pop them free Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keelerad 256 Report post Posted July 30, 2014 Got yellow stuff front and back now, fronts did 200miles (120 laps) of Oulton Park with no problems at all, worked all day, no fade, but I did totally shag the OEM rears (and the disks, but they had done over 27k anyway). Picked up some cheap rear disks, think they are the Japanese poverty spec design, solid rather than ventilated, but only £55 the pair new. For what its worth (being an opinion) I use my brakes pretty hard and having done about 4-5k on them now I'd be happy to get the yellowstuff pads again Alec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted July 30, 2014 I can say that I'd probably not be getting stop techs again, not feeling 100% confident on them, typically the initial bite is good but then it doesn't seem to continue to brake as well, some times it's fine, on the odd occasion it felt like the car didn't want to stop.......so I probably won't be getting them again.....either that or I need to change my discs to work with the pads....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted July 30, 2014 I can say that I'd probably not be getting stop techs again, not feeling 100% confident on them, typically the initial bite is good but then it doesn't seem to continue to brake as well, some times it's fine, on the odd occasion it felt like the car didn't want to stop.......so I probably won't be getting them again.....either that or I need to change my discs to work with the pads.......Why would discs make a difference? That's down to the pad material. Is it a cold/hot issue? I hear that the StopTech's aren't particularly resistant to fade. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted July 30, 2014 I can say that I'd probably not be getting stop techs again, not feeling 100% confident on them, typically the initial bite is good but then it doesn't seem to continue to brake as well, some times it's fine, on the odd occasion it felt like the car didn't want to stop.......so I probably won't be getting them again.....either that or I need to change my discs to work with the pads....... I had similar with my Performance Friction pads and even teh Brembo BBK Pads. Initial bite was good but then just felt like had to stomp on the pedal to really get braking power. But... Once i'd taken it on a hard session around Snetterton they were insane! I think they just need a bl**dy good running in and bedding process! Could not believe the difference a good thrash round Snett made. Probably got them super hot / let them cool 3 - 4 times over 3 hours. Totally difference brakes! I'd just go and thrash them for a bit. I'd read to bed them in slowly and let them adjust in there own time. But i've now had two sets of pads which actually worked much better after a good temperature cycle! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted July 30, 2014 Here's what Jay is on about:http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-pads/post/Bed-in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted July 30, 2014 I thought that but I've had them for a while now and I'm sure the pads have been well heated when they stopped well and when they didn't stop so well. Steve, the only reason I mention the discs is cos I had an ever so slight lip on the disc and I'm sure they a bit worn. Don't the quality of the disc affect the stopping power, I know the pad materials make most of the difference but I wasn't sure if the quality or design on the discs helped at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted July 30, 2014 If you're still on OEM discs, then it won't be disc quality issues. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Adam43 2 Report post Posted August 18, 2015 Thanks for this thread. It made the job very quick as I had the correct sized spanner and sockets ready. Thanks. By calliper rewind tool, I assume you mean piece of wood and screwdriver? ;-) It is a very easy job. I've put yellow stuff on, so we shall see. I shall let you know how I got on. I went EBC because I could get them quick for a track day. Although the last set of EBC I had were blue (different car) and they were gone after two stints at Oulton. I think they must have been faulty as all the material had gone and a piston punched a hole in the metal backing! :eek: They feel good so far. A short test drive showed the 'brake in' coating they have meant they worked from the start. Although I thought they got worse after the initial few presses and then got better again. I might have imagined this though. The car has done 8,000 miles and the original pads were hardly worn, which bodes well. Is that normal, does anyone else experience low pad wear? Pro rate these look good for 40,000miles. It's not a motorway car. #43 1 Keethos reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted August 18, 2015 On the road with spirited driving, the stock pads last fine. Mine are about 75% worn at 9kmiles which is 80% spirited driving. On track day I swap out the pads. so far I got: 2 track days out of project mu HC+ 800s 3 track days out of DS2500 now on project mu club racers for the track which are a more aggressive race compound. They need heat to work correctly. Discs are down to just under 23mm last time I checked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted August 18, 2015 Stock pads last forever. I got 36K out of my first set. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Adam43 2 Report post Posted August 18, 2015 I'm impressed. I guess it is quite light compared to most modern road cars. I kept the original pads. I don't think I'll put them back in for road, but keep them for emergency. #43 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Special K 442 Report post Posted August 18, 2015 Thanks for this thread. It made the job very quick as I had the correct sized spanner and sockets ready. Thanks. By calliper rewind tool, I assume you mean piece of wood and screwdriver? ;-) It is a very easy job. I've put yellow stuff on, so we shall see. I shall let you know how I got on. I went EBC because I could get them quick for a track day. Although the last set of EBC I had were blue (different car) and they were gone after two stints at Oulton. I think they must have been faulty as all the material had gone and a piston punched a hole in the metal backing! :eek: They feel good so far. A short test drive showed the 'brake in' coating they have meant they worked from the start. Although I thought they got worse after the initial few presses and then got better again. I might have imagined this though. The car has done 8,000 miles and the original pads were hardly worn, which bodes well. Is that normal, does anyone else experience low pad wear? Pro rate these look good for 40,000miles. It's not a motorway car. #43 Adam - all pads feel worse before they feel better. "Bedding in" is not just about tempering the surface of the pad against the rotor, it's evaporating the moisture inherent in the pad's production process. Minimum is 10 miles on gentle road braking, before you start the 5-stamp tempering. (Or 10-stamp if you're running StopTech rotors . . ) Lauren gives knowledge - her car has done more road miles than probably anyone else on the Forum. 40k from road pads is extreme - but others will know better from experience. i My advice? - go for a 300+C brake fluid. Costs more but the difference in brake performance is noticeable if you've got your pads up to optimum performance. Spec K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Adam43 2 Report post Posted August 18, 2015 My comment was around some special coating that was on them to make work on the first press to partially combat what you describe. Something they don't have on the blue or orange stuff which I'm normally used to. I was curious how good that was. I did my normal bedding in anyway, which is why I can't be sure how they developed because as you say I eased them in at first. My preferred brake fluid is Castrol SRF, or whatever they call it now. Although the GT86 has standard in it, so I shall limit the stint lengths. #43 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted August 18, 2015 Torque RT700 seems to be the fluid to go for these days of you're after higher temp stuff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
