speedy 32 Report post Posted February 17, 2014 So, didn't take many pictures yesterday while doing this as I needed to get it done and move on to the next DIY job. You will need : Ability to lift the car up in a safe way. (Great pictures here : http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111). I used some solid oak to help cushion the car. Nothing but the best... 19mm deep socket or wheel brace to remove the wheel nuts (don't forget the locking wheel nut key..) 14mm spanner 14mm socket and breaker bar 17mm socket Calliper rewind tool Torque wrench (from 25nm to 120nm) So, after making sure you're ready to go, working from front to back : Loosen off the wheel nuts on the front of the car Make sure that the handbrake is full engaged Lift the front end of the car Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel Locate the two 14mm bolts which hold the calliper in place. These shouldn't be very tight, and use the spanner to loosen and remove. You can get a socket on the bottom one, but might not be able to get one on the top one because the brake line is in the way. Jiggle the calliper free. You should be able to rest it on the lower arm of the suspension without putting any stress on the brake line. If you were just replacing the pads, you would be able to swap the pads out at this point Use the caliper rewind tool to carefully push the pistons back in. Be careful not to damage the rubber seals around the piston. Using the 17mm socket and the breaker bar, loosen and remove the two bolts which hold the torque plate/caliper carrier on. There is one at the top and one at the bottom. They will require some force to loosen. Once that is off, you can now remove the disc. If you are lucky, then this will just slide off the hub. If you are not (and I was not) then the disc will require some encouragement to remove. I ended up having to use a large pry bar and a small sledge hammer to tap it free. Be careful here, it's certainly possible to damage the wheel bearings by going at it hard. Replace the disc Replace the torque plate/calliper carrier. The 17mm bolts need to be done to 80nm, and it is awkward to get a long torque wrench on both of them. Put new pads in Slide the calliper back over the pads. I didn't bother replacing the shims on the back of the calliper (some of them wouldn't come off the old pads anyway). If the calliper won't go over the pads you may have to push the pistons further in. Replace the 14mm bolts which hold the calliper in place, these have to be done to 26nm. Check you have tightened everything Replace the wheel.. The rear is the same as the front, save for a couple of differences. The bolts which hold the calliper carrier on are 14mm, not 17mm. They need to be torqued to 66nm, not 80nm. You'll need to chock the car at the front (in both directions), since you can't use the handbrake Make sure the handbrake is off, since I suspect the brake shoes pushing against the disc will make it impossible (or very very hard) to remove the disc without damaging the mechanism. The rear brakes also house the internal drum which is used for the handbrake. I didn't touch this, but it looks very neat. Also, I had brake fluid to hand in case I had to open the bleed nipple on the calliper to get the pistons back in. In the end I didn't have to do that, so I didn't have to bleed the brakes and feed more fluid into the system. After starting the car, the pedal went straight to the floor, but then came straight back up. The brake bite point is now much higher than it was previously (which was a bit surprising at first). Makes me realise how worn the old brakes were. Other full guide which involves bleeding the brakes : http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24614 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy 32 Report post Posted February 17, 2014 Rear brakes showing the internal handbrake mechanism : Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy 32 Report post Posted February 17, 2014 Old pads which were removed - front on top, rear below. They were done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy 32 Report post Posted February 17, 2014 Replacement front pads for comparison Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86-Ian 351 Report post Posted February 17, 2014 I take it those rear brakes are off a BRZ, look nothing like mine Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
speedy 32 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 Er, nope. Toyota. You'll have to take the brake disc off to see it though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keelerad 256 Report post Posted February 25, 2014 It's the hand brake, totally separate system from the proper brakes, uses a cable and old school drum, means if your hydraulics fail you still have some method of braking. Alec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
forge197 12 Report post Posted February 28, 2014 How many miles are you guys generally getting from the pads, I noticed today my front and rear discs have quite a lip on them already need to have a closer look at the pads, but the discs don't appear to be lasting that well!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keelerad 256 Report post Posted March 1, 2014 MIne have a lip on them and front pads nearly done after 20k, looking at new pads and a front disk skim Alec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted March 1, 2014 How many miles are you guys generally getting from the pads, I noticed today my front and rear discs have quite a lip on them already need to have a closer look at the pads, but the discs don't appear to be lasting that well!! I've done 31K on the original pads and discs. They last forever I reckon. That includes two trackdays a sprint and up and down the Alps twice. Mine are 70 & 60% worn, so reckon I'll get close to 40K out of them. I'm easy on brakes though, so depends how you drive. I may need to change my discs at 40K, but, they may actually be okay. 40K out of a set of disc and pads if frankly amazing I think! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
forge197 12 Report post Posted March 1, 2014 Lauren that is good going I would say on the road light on brakes track I am not, I won't get the mileage you will, agree that's good going. Still good excuse to change for some Stoptech discs and pads so not all bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Twigman 93 Report post Posted March 3, 2014 Is mileage a good indicator of brake wear? I don't think so - it's quite possible to drive hundreds of miles on motorways without ever touching the brakes! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted March 3, 2014 Is mileage a good indicator of brake wear? I don't think so - it's quite possible to drive hundreds of miles on motorways without ever touching the brakes! I do a lot of mixed driving. How you drive the car will have an impact on brake wear of course. I don't use the brakes much, but I could for example be following a car down an A road who brakes at every corner. I tend not to. I guess after a time this has an effect. A friend of mine (Speedy) got 37K out of his pads and discs, both needed changing at that point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keelerad 256 Report post Posted March 7, 2014 Other full guide which involves bleeding the brakes : http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24614 Looking at the pics in the link to the FT86 site, I have realised just how low tech the standard calipers are compared to Bike calipers (Dohh, I painted the bloody things red and didn't realise!) They are not opposed pistons, they're floating, we only have 2 pistons both on the same side which means the caliper has to slide across on pins to apply pressure so the pads contact both sides of the disk, so making sure the caliper can slide side to side freely on the pins is well worth while and getting some copaslip or similar grease on the sliding surfaces is probably a good idea (don't get it on the disk or front of the pads, good idea on the back) I haven't worked on non-opposed calipers since the 1980's (haven't been interested in maintaining previous cars, since my first XR2, which was also a child of the 80's), I just assumed they would be opposed piston calipers by now, like I assumed a sports car would come with an oil cooler as standard. Are opposed pistons unusual then on standard setups these days ? I was just surprised to find such old tech on a modern vehicle. I was wondering how the caliper retraction tool I just bought was going to work on an opposed piston setup and now I know ! Have decided to give the EBC yellowstuff pads a go as I was impressed with the knowledge of the EBC guy at the Autosport show about options for the '86, OK he was never going to recommend anyone else's but at least he knew what he was talking about Alec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted March 7, 2014 Are opposed pistons unusual then on standard setups these days ? I was just surprised to find such old tech on a modern vehicle. Virtually all production cars use this setup to be fair. That's it's got two pistons is actually reasonably unusual, most cars will just have one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
forge197 12 Report post Posted March 8, 2014 Thanks for this guide have changed my discs and pads today Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keelerad 256 Report post Posted March 13, 2014 Received my yellowstuff pads from EBC come with shims clips and a packet of brake grease Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted March 13, 2014 Oooooooo....when you putting them on Alec? Let us know how you get on with them.....I'm planning on getting a set of the Stoptech pads from Adrian this weekend. Seems like there's a nice range of members here using different pads now which should be good info for other members who are looking for new pads. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted March 13, 2014 EBC was a brave shout, very mixed reviews.I'm really surprised that no-one is tempted by the Performance Friction pads as IMO look the best value for what you get.IIRC TarmacSportz are the cheapest StopTech distributers in the UK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted March 13, 2014 Yeah, they are but since I'll be down at Adrian's this weekend, thought I'd get them off him as it's convenient.....plus I like to support those who support the club! 1 Special K reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted March 21, 2014 Any ideas who long I should leave my car for after driving it before I should tackle swapping brakes? I.e. how long do people reckon it'll take for them to cool down enough to touch with rubber gloves? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted March 21, 2014 Any ideas who long I should leave my car for after driving it before I should tackle swapping brakes? I.e. how long do people reckon it'll take for them to cool down enough to touch with rubber gloves?Depends on how far you've driven and how hard. If it's not been driven hard, you can get under there straight away. It'll take you time getting everything set up anyway, tools, jack up, wheels etc by the time that's doneyou're good to go. I usually just have a cuppa before starting....If you've driven it hard enough you can feel heat coming through the wheels, leave it a while. 1 Keethos reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Keethos 842 Report post Posted March 27, 2014 Opinions people, I've just quickly checked one of my pads and this is how much I've got left on one of them, should I change them before my sprint this weekend? There's about 2/3 mm left: Just when I thought the rain would stop for the evening....it goes and starts to bloody rain again....so I quickly took a pic and put everything back together again....if they need changing, I'll try and get it done tomorrow after work as long as it STOPS BLOODY RAINING!!! Really wish I had a big garage Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted March 27, 2014 They don't need changing, although a track session might put them on their last legs. You could abuse them and then change them, you'll get more from your new pads then. 1 Keethos reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted March 28, 2014 Keith i'm going to be there with the same amount left as you, probably a little less. My plan is to destroy them and then change them after 1 Keethos reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
