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  1. Yesterday
  2. Still available - Photos updated
  3. Hi all, Sorry if this has previously been answered but I'm a bit confused - my VLANDS headlights seem to have two settings for dipped beam, close distance and far distance. When driving on a road with no lights, the 'close distance' setting is basically worthless as you wouldn't see an animal running in front of you, but can be handy to keep lights low with on-coming traffic on a well lit road. The 'far distance' setting is so much better as you can see quite far which is great, without having main beam on. I seemed to have activated the 'far distance' setting by accident by flicking main beam on and off, but after a while it reverted back to the 'close distance' setting. I kept flicking main beam off and back on occasionally to see if it would change the setting again and it did a couple times, but other times it didn't...? Are the VLAND headlights meant to have two 'dipped beam' settings? And if so, does anyone know how to flick between them or stop them from reverting back to the 'close distance' setting? Appreciate any help on this - thanks
  4. Hi all, I am selling my OEM Toyota GT86 Headlights from my 2015 model as I have recently replaced them with VLANDS; they are in great condition and have no cracks or leaks. I am looking for £350 and would prefer collection / local sale only (due to the problems I had with a postal service last time and ended up delivering it myself). Please see photos below:
  5. MOD's can you lock the thread please as Im no longer looking. Also it might stop people joining just to message me with offers to buy outside the forum.
  6. 3782mc

    Reyland brake kit

    I was running Ferodo DS2500 at the time (the standard pads that come with the kit - hated them with a passion), the discs had seen approx. 8 track days at that point IIRC. I wouldn’t say that the DS2500 is a particularly aggressive pad, in fact I would say they were far too mild for my liking. Now switched to PMu HC+ but haven’t tracked the car enough (due to lockdown) to tell if the compound has made a difference. That said, they are excellent pads for pure road use but not aggressive enough on track - I have ordered a set of Endless ME20 which will be going on as soon as the PMus wear down.
  7. Lauren

    GR Yaris who's going for it?

    In an update of mapping the tuning box, good progress has been made. Nervous me has had plenty of reassurances from Richard and Gary has checked the fuelling which is nice and rich on full boost at the top end. I have also received information from trusted sources that the stock bottom end will take 500bhp and been advised that I'm barely tickling it at 305bhp. This is good news. I have had some revisions done to the map, to wind back the boost a bit at 3000rpm and make it a bit more linear. The guy at DTUK has been excellent with taking a lot of time to discuss and revise and checking in with me every day this week, when I've been in the car. This has helped and the car is absolutely flying now. The boost increase is 0.2 bar/2.9psi, so it's nothing too crazy. Really enjoyed the EVO article too.
  8. Last week
  9. OliverOCC

    OEM Jap spec front plate plinth

    Wasn't aware that you could source them from a Toyota dealer so price factored in a bit of the shipping and import fees as it came from Japan. Buyer has been notified
  10. Leeky

    OEM Jap spec front plate plinth

    Not trying to do you out of a sale... but these are only £24 inc vat brand new from your local Toyota dealer. I bought one of these myself only last summer. Exact same part number.
  11. Lauren

    Coilover help required

    I had something similar to this with my TEIN setup. It turned out the thread where the top mount screws onto the strut was worn. Though it sounds like by changing the top mounts you have already changed these. Sorry not much help.
  12. Leeky

    Coilover help required

    If this was my car i’d remove the droplinks completely and secure down the roll bar then take it for a drive (very carefully) to see if the clonk has gone. If so, at least you know its not your coilovers and is either a drop link or the roll bar itself. If its still there then its gotta be the spring/shock or topmounts.
  13. JohnM

    Coilover help required

    Did you tighten the droplinks whilst the car was up in the air or underload with the car back on the ground ?? Also make sure your anti roll bar is central before tightening everything down. I had a clonk when I fitted mine on the passenger side which was driving me nuts and I tried everything, even went through refitting the coilover only to find out I had pulled my roll bar 5mm over to the one side, which caused the droplink to only slightly catch on the lower control arm.
  14. Luke

    Coilover help required

    I think it might be best to make a short video replicating the sound as you drive. You seems to of covered all the suggestions that I would of come up with. Unless what you’ve replaced is inherently faulty. Could it not be coincidence that something behind the dash has decided to creak after you installed the suspension. I’ve gone back to stock suspension once and it did remove some low speed rumbles from the suspension. Perhaps it’s worth changing the fronts back to stock to see if the sound disappears?
  15. maurice

    Coilover help required

    I've only ever had KW coilovers on my cars. On both sets a slight squeak has sometimes been audible from the rear, more often when cold, some sort of spring stiction maybe that I put down to "coilover noise". It's nothing bad, and you do accept a bit more NVH when modifying. I wouldn't consider any knocking or clonking acceptable, that would drive me up the wall.
  16. gavin_t

    Coilover help required

    Its very hard to tell without seeing/hearing. If you can re-create the noise as you say using the sill. Could you do this whilst on a four post ramp and see if it can be identified to a more confined area? I had persistent noise on an old set of coil overs on an old car that I could never fully trace. it appeared to be something relating the top mount but I could never work it out. Was certainly the top mount or shock as it was a rear one and the left and right were the same. If you swapped them over the noise followed..... So I know the frustration of a noise you cannot trace Fortunately the GT86 and its flex A have been silent Even the pillowball top mounts don't add much road noise.
  17. Booboo

    Coilover help required

    I am having a prolonged issue with front end noise on my coilovers and am seriously considering going back to stock. I am looking for feedback with those that have gone this route. I realise NVH is increased especially with adjustable top mounts but the noise I am experiencing appears to be coming from one side only and can be best described as a metallic 'clonk' There is no noise whilst statically turning the wheels. There is no noise when specifically braking or accelerating. It can only be heard whilst driving at low speed in any direction over an undulated surface and I can create it by standing on the driver’s side sill and bouncing the car. The noise is coming from the top of the offside strut top. Vehicle is a facelift 2017 BRZ. Coilovers are Ohlins R & T SUSMP21 (purchased new) It is lowered about 25mm and preload is set at recommended settings for the 50Nm springs The coilovers were purchased in 2019 and fitted with Raceseng top mounts. I got absolutely no noise for around 6 months. Then it slowly developed a slight 'click' from the front end over rough surfaces and although I found it acceptable the suspension components were checked out; everything was tight, and no issues were found. Suspected noise was diagnosed as likely to be a top mount bearing. As the noise got progressively louder and turned into a 'clonk' I was convinced something was loose or something was hitting something else as the suspension was being compressed. Upper stut nuts were torqued up fine as was the lower nut where the adjustable knob is, and no leaks were evident. At this point the dampers were removed once again, externally inspected and all other components checked over. There are no contact marks of anything rubbing around any of the moving suspension parts. As it appeared on only one side, and a dodgy bearing was suspected on one of the Raceseng top mounts, to rule them out as an issue Ohlins own top mounts were installed but the noise persisted! Addressing other potential offending components, the lower control arms have recently been replaced with Whiteline's roll centre/bump steer kit and on the last inspection a new set of 50Nm springs were fitted all round (original were 40Nm front and 30Nm rear) New stock ARB links were also fitted to eliminate the possibility of them being the culprit. TBH each time the vehicle is first driven the noise almost vanishes but within a few hundred miles it returns🙄 In December last year I finally conceded the only component that could still be at fault was the actual damper. As I had only a few months of warranty left both fronts were duly sent off to an Ohlins service centre. A dyno report came back all good on both and as the only visible sign of wear was the upper bushings (which they stated was very slight) they were replaced under warranty. The dampers were re-fitted yesterday, and the dreaded 'clonk' is still ****** present! 😠 I would appreciate any advice on whether I might have missed something or where this noise could be coming from. Likewise what noises if any do you experience after fitting coilovers and what would you deem as acceptable
  18. maurice

    Fensport vs Tuning Developments

    Forrester, going through a puddle? https://goflatoutph.com/2019/05/21/many-unibody-suvs-cant-go-off-road-and-then-theres-the-subaru-forester-with-video/
  19. BRZ-123

    Fensport vs Tuning Developments

    I did tell them which is why they did not bother fitting that turbo engine to the BRZ in first or second gen even though they had to develop the NA variant specifically. [emoji6][emoji6]For a high ground clearance SUV or even a rally car vs a low to the ground sports car, no comparison mate. [emoji3] Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
  20. Kodename47

    Fensport vs Tuning Developments

    Probably worth telling Subaru then
  21. BRZ-123

    Fensport vs Tuning Developments

    Very few will claim they did damage driving their car through water. That's an idiot claiming he is one. [emoji2960][emoji3] So forums will not abound with such feedback. I did say its not a hugely likely scenario but with a low car and potentially lowered , is not a brilliant design for a daily. Great for track though as low COG. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
  22. OliverOCC

    (RESERVED) Malian resonated catback

    RESERVED PENDING PAYMENT
  23. MartinT

    Fensport vs Tuning Developments

    I had a Sprintex supercharger previously (and several turbo cars) and preferred the progressive, more predictable and 'big engine' feel of a supercharger. The Harrop is a more grown-up supercharger with its Eaton core and intercooling over the Sprintex and is much quieter in operation (no whine). It also has no lag so, together with the excellent tune from Abbey, responses are lightning fast. There is some parasitic load but it doesn't affect responses and power is up by 50% to just over 300bhp which is plenty. To be honest, it just feels like it's a 3.0l engine. The combination of the excellent OEM feel of the Harrop kit and Abbey's attention to detail in the installation are just what I wanted for a car that is my daily all-season driver.
  24. Leeky

    Fensport vs Tuning Developments

    Oh I see! My apologies I misunderstood
  25. Conscript

    Fensport vs Tuning Developments

    He's referring to Abbey, Fensport and Tuning Developments.
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