Is...

[Kodename47 446]

2 hours ago, KevinA said:

TD make their own, and fit fine.

But they are basically the Porsche ones, but with bolt-on fit and a hefty mark up. Proper ventilation is costly, Verus (ex-Velox) make some top notch engineering solutions but you pay for it. I have yet to see anyone over here match the quality or R&D they put into any of their parts.

Don't bother with a LWCP, they are such a small proportion of the rotational weight of the engine that I doubt you'd really notice any difference unless just free revving in neutral. Plus the possible (but non-proven) issues due to loss of harmonic damping. You'd be better off going for a Fluidampr but for the cost I'm not sure it's worth it over stock.

Oil pressure is more an issue on the FA20, temps are not an issue but pressure does drop off when the oil gets hot. Best option no 1 is to use a thicker oil. As @Lauren said, modern oils aren't such an issue with temperatures and degradation especially if you use a decent oil.

Engine mounts. STi or TRD ones are likely to be the same, hardened rubber over OEM but reports are not much added NVH. Cusco ones are also available, possibly cheaper but are harder again and reports are it's noticeable in the cabin. Recently I discovered that Hardrace make some, they will be comparable priced and probably between the STi/TRD and Cusco for hardness. I had Hardrace bushes on my EK9 and were often chosen due to the quality. When I go for engine mounts then this will be my route.

[Deacon 1357]

6 minutes ago, knightryder said:

Oil pressure is more an issue on the FA20, temps are not an issue but pressure does drop off when the oil gets hot. Best option no 1 is to use a thicker oil. As @Lauren said, modern oils aren't such an issue with temperatures and degradation especially if you use a decent oil.

I'd agree that pressure is the big problem but even with a modern, thicker oil I was easily hitting 130°c pre cooler at Bedford in the summer (not a super hot day) so I wouldn't agree that temps are not an issue. 

[Kodename47 446]

1 minute ago, Deacon said:

I'd agree that pressure is the big problem but even with a modern, thicker oil I was easily hitting 130°c pre cooler at Bedford in the summer (not a super hot day) so I wouldn't agree that temps are not an issue. 

But it's not really the temperature that's the issue, was more my point. Let's, for example, pick a top of the range oil designed for high temp use. At 130C and 6k RPM after 2 laps, a 0W20 is at 50psi, 0W30 at 80psi, 5W40 is 95psi. Out of those, the temperature on the 0W20 is an issue as the pressure is dropping, the 0W30 is probably on it's limits but the 5W40 is still capable of more abuse. Yes this car could do with more oil cooling, but I would be more concerned with oil pressure than peak temperatures. Knowing the relationship between those 2 with what you run is where you want to be at. Any track car should be running an oil pressure gauge IMO. 

[Deacon 1357]

10 minutes ago, knightryder said:

But it's not really the temperature that's the issue, was more my point. Let's, for example, pick a top of the range oil designed for high temp use. At 130C and 6k RPM after 2 laps, a 0W20 is at 50psi, 0W30 at 80psi, 5W40 is 95psi. Out of those, the temperature on the 0W20 is an issue as the pressure is dropping, the 0W30 is probably on it's limits but the 5W40 is still capable of more abuse. Yes this car could do with more oil cooling, but I would be more concerned with oil pressure than peak temperatures. Knowing the relationship between those 2 with what you run is where you want to be at. Any track car should be running an oil pressure gauge IMO. 

Definitely agreed on the oil pressure gauge. 

[Kodename47 446]

I've just had a look at the spec sheet for the oil I use, it states "Suitable for operating at 130oC with peak temperatures up to 150oC." I'd probably struggle to get it to 150C.

I was discussing oil pressures with @Mark@Abbey M/S recently, the FA20 has a shared oil journal for the 2 centre rods IIRC and this is where you will have issues when the pressure drops enough and it can't supply enough oil for both bearings. That's if they aren't blocked by the excessive sealant that the assembly line seems to apply and is being more commonly reported as engine failure causes recently.

[Varelco 211]

What's to suggest the measurement point for the oil temperature is the hottest? 

A bit risky letting it get that hot IMO. 

[surrey86 352]

@Rich that looks a good solution. Tbh though I'd worry how fragile the ducts would be in everyday use, probably ok but once you get to over £500 outlay a set of AP's from Reyland start to look like a 'sensible investment'.

[Lauren 2259]

1 hour ago, maurice said:

@Rich that looks a good solution. Tbh though I'd worry how fragile the ducts would be in everyday use, probably ok but once you get to over £500 outlay a set of AP's from Reyland start to look like a 'sensible investment'.

It's a way of totally sorting it. £1500 is a lot, but really it's a bargain for what you get. The difference is astonishing. Now I can concentrate on my driving on track with total confidence in the brakes lap after lap. 

[Andrew Smith 156]

Thank you all so much everyone for your input, gives me plenty to think about. 

Pullies are off the table, I think unless the whole drivetrain is being lightened then the benefits would be marginal and the doubt that surrounds the crank pulley is enough to put me off.

The Porsche brake ducts aren't really tempting me, just seems a little too much of a hack. The Verus kit looks good but I think, as was mentioned, at a price where really one has to start considering a brake upgrade... those APs do look and sound the business mmmm. For now I am  going to try TDs own ducts. A good tidy fit and offer some help towards cooling.

I am going for the hardrace engine mounts, made from a harder rubber they shouldn't add too much NVH and should stop my op issue. The quality of Hardrace appears to be well thought of and the price is fair.

What I took from the oil temp discussion is that the oil is good for the higher temps but the oil pressure suffers. An oil cooler is going to be a win for me, lower oil temp helping keep the pressure up and longer stints on a track day. I'm going for the TD cooler kit, with its thermostat to help the oil run at a normal temp when in daily use.

[Deacon 1357]

6 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:

What I took from the oil temp discussion is that the oil is good for the higher temps but the oil pressure suffers. An oil cooler is going to be a win for me, lower oil temp helping keep the pressure up and longer stints on a track day. I'm going for the TD cooler kit, with its thermostat to help the oil run at a normal temp when in daily use.

You may want to get a higher rated thermostat fitted - do you know what temp the TD cooler kit comes with? Mine had an 80°c one originally but it's too low for road use really. I've swapped to a 92°c one which works much better. 

Even with a higher temperature thermostat you'll also need to look into something to block the cooler during winter road use. I've used duct tape on my grill as a temporary measure but have a piece of polycarbonate sheet ready to make a cover with. 

[Andrew Smith 156]

On ‎05‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 10:58 AM, Deacon said:

You may want to get a higher rated thermostat fitted - do you know what temp the TD cooler kit comes with? Mine had an 80°c one originally but it's too low for road use really. I've swapped to a 92°c one which works much better. 

Even with a higher temperature thermostat you'll also need to look into something to block the cooler during winter road use. I've used duct tape on my grill as a temporary measure but have a piece of polycarbonate sheet ready to make a cover with. 

I don't know what the thermostat is rated at but good call, may be @Mike@TD.co.uk can shed a little light?

I have sheet of acrylic that would be good for cooler blanking