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You don't need an oil cooling unless you like doing long sessions on track. Nothing wrong with stock engine mounts. Brake ducts may help a little but I have come to the conclusion that the only way to have absolutely consistent and good braking is to fit AP four pots or similar to the front. Whatever you do to stock brakes they will fade after a few laps of hard braking. They just about cope is what I found. 

Lightweight pullies are just bling. The crank ones in aftermarket pullies don't have a harmonic damper. Whilst many report no problems with this, you have to ask yourself why Toyota and Subaru fitted them in the first place. 

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1 hour ago, maurice said:

OEM Porsche GT3 air ducts are cheap and can be attached with a few tie wraps. I'm not sure they do a huge amount, but for the cost worth a go.

I am just looking at the TD ducts, direct fit, just bolt up and go and seems fair at £42. I haven't had much fade in the 7 track days I have done but I have come to realise after last Monday that I am getting more comfortable with getting the car moving around, later braking and generally just being quicker. 

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5 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:

I am just looking at the TD ducts, direct fit, just bolt up and go and seems fair at £42. I haven't had much fade in the 7 track days I have done but I have come to realise after last Monday that I am getting more comfortable with getting the car moving around, later braking and generally just being quicker. 

The Porsche ones can be picked up for about £7!

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@Lauren @KevinA The mounts are really to try and solve a problem I have with the overpipe hitting the arb. After jiggling around the various flanges and then finally hitting the offending area of the op with a big hammer I am still getting the op hitting the arb. I put a transmission mount bush in the other day just to see it that would help... it did but not enough to cure it unfortunately, so I feel the last resort is to fit stiffer mounts. I have read of one or two instances of this in the states but the fix has never been posted as far as I can see.

The oil cooler I really think would be beneficial to me, I saw temps of 127 the other day, a cold wet day. This is too high for me. On a summers day it is going to sky rocket and really I would like to spend more than a couple of hot laps out at a time.

I think the pullies could be good maybe with a light prop shaft just to make the engine a little perkier but all the undocumented problems that forums talk of is off-putting, much confusion here I feel.

 

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15 minutes ago, Deacon said:

The Porsche ones can be picked up for about £7!

Mine cost £12, though half of that was shipping! Cable tied on in a matter of minutes. Can't say I've noticed a huge improvement, but worth it for the price.

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20 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:

@Lauren @KevinA The mounts are really to try and solve a problem I have with the overpipe hitting the arb. After jiggling around the various flanges and then finally hitting the offending area of the op with a big hammer I am still getting the op hitting the arb. I put a transmission mount bush in the other day just to see it that would help... it did but not enough to cure it unfortunately, so I feel the last resort is to fit stiffer mounts. I have read of one or two instances of this in the states but the fix has never been posted as far as I can see.

The oil cooler I really think would be beneficial to me, I saw temps of 127 the other day, a cold wet day. This is too high for me. On a summers day it is going to sky rocket and really I would like to spend more than a couple of hot laps out at a time.

I think the pullies could be good maybe with a light prop shaft just to make the engine a little perkier but all the undocumented problems that forums talk of is off-putting, much confusion here I feel.

 

Hmm, are you running an odd overripe? I've never had this problem. I measured oil temps round Donington on a day that was very hot in July 2013. It was 35C. Temps went to about 129C after three laps. So not really any higher. It did seem to stabilise around this temperature I noticed. But yes, see the point for longer sessions. I was easing off to cool it a bit. I can see the point of an oil cooler though modern oils are better at handling high temperatures than oil of old. 

If you want to increase engine responsiveness then fitter a lighter flywheel. When you're at higher speeds on track these things make less of a difference really. 

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6 minutes ago, Lauren said:

Hmm, are you running an odd overripe? I've never had this problem. I measured oil temps round Donington on a day that was very hot in July 2013. It was 35C. Temps went to about 129C after three laps. So not really any higher. It did seem to stabilise around this temperature I noticed. But yes, see the point for longer sessions. I was easing off to cool it a bit. I can see the point of an oil cooler though modern oils are better at handling high temperatures than oil of old. 

If you want to increase engine responsiveness then fitter a lighter flywheel. When you're at higher speeds on track these things make less of a difference really. 

The op and mani are TDs' and have been rechecked against another system for the correct size/shape etc. The car has been in a shunt before I got it but it was only a light shunt at the front and I can see no signs of damage, stress, twisting of anything. The only conclusion is that the mounts have prematurely gone bad. At Donny I had the problem of op vibration just after the brow of the hill at craner, on the apex at Starkeys Bridge  and near the exit curb at the chicane, all left hand and all a compression area. Bit worried that the bomb hole in a couple of weeks is going to kill it. Standing starts are also a no no at the moment.

I feel that I want to stay out longer as with my limited experience I want to get as many laps in as possible and get them most from a track day.. getting old and running out of time lol.

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45 minutes ago, Rich said:

Mine cost £12, though half of that was shipping! Cable tied on in a matter of minutes. Can't say I've noticed a huge improvement, but worth it for the price.

@Deacon says you were robbed.

But there has been an improvement?

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2 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:

The op and mani are TDs' and have been rechecked against another system for the correct size/shape etc. The car has been in a shunt before I got it but it was only a light shunt at the front and I can see no signs of damage, stress, twisting of anything. The only conclusion is that the mounts have prematurely gone bad. At Donny I had the problem of op vibration just after the brow of the hill at craner, on the apex at Starkeys Bridge  and near the exit curb at the chicane, all left hand and all a compression area. Bit worried that the bomb hole in a couple of weeks is going to kill it. Standing starts are also a no no at the moment.

I feel that I want to stay out longer as with my limited experience I want to get as many laps in as possible and get them most from a track day.. getting old and running out of time lol.

Ah I see. I'm running their manifold, though with a Milltek overpipe and then their cat delete and resonated system. Had no problems, so I guess it must be something affected or damaged as nobody else reports this problem AFAIK. You may get more vibration from fitting stiffer engine mounts that'd be my worry. 

I find four or five lap sessions with a cool down lap enough for my concentration. It's tiring driving on track and I get very focused. Years ago when I was doing 20 minute races it used to feel like an age when I got near the end! Once your mouth starts going dry, that's the time to come in I reckon. I generally find that those who do long stints don't drive as hard. But different folks and all that. 

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Engine mounts are definitely worth considering, however I'd only get the STi ones to avoid any extra NVH. (See video below). 

Also if you want proper brake cooling these are the ducts you want: https://www.verus-engineering.com/product-page/full-brake-cooling-kit-ft86, I'd avoid the APR ones as they don't cool the brake disc properly.

 

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8 hours ago, Lauren said:

Ah I see. I'm running their manifold, though with a Milltek overpipe and then their cat delete and resonated system. Had no problems, so I guess it must be something affected or damaged as nobody else reports this problem AFAIK. You may get more vibration from fitting stiffer engine mounts that'd be my worry. 

I find four or five lap sessions with a cool down lap enough for my concentration. It's tiring driving on track and I get very focused. Years ago when I was doing 20 minute races it used to feel like an age when I got near the end! Once your mouth starts going dry, that's the time to come in I reckon. I generally find that those who do long stints don't drive as hard. But different folks and all that. 

I am hoping that we might end up at the same track day at some point as I would like you to take a few laps in my car and tell me what you think. We have pretty much the same set up ... tune, coilovers, geo etc. I dont think it is too far wide of the mark but then again I am a gentleman driver and not a racer.

I didnt have any problems with my last car, which had the same set up, so I figure my problem is peculiar to this particular car. I do believe that the car is straight so I am thinking new mounts will sort it out. Not so bothered about harshness as I dont do a lot of miles, I would rather ride my motobike on the road as traffic jams then become irrelevent

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4 hours ago, will300 said:

Engine mounts are definitely worth considering, however I'd only get the STi ones to avoid any extra NVH. (See video below). 

Also if you want proper brake cooling these are the ducts you want: https://www.verus-engineering.com/product-page/full-brake-cooling-kit-ft86, I'd avoid the APR ones as they don't cool the brake disc properly.

 

Fu k me @will300 I am not Rothchild 😲 Not a big fan of merica, call me old school but I would rather keep my groats in the UK.

I have watched loads of before and after vids of stock v upgraded mounts and I think you are right. Our motors do seem to bounce around a lot while a stiffer mount cures a lot of that

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8 hours ago, maurice said:

Be careful, those brake ducts above require removal of the windscreen washer bottle, not very practical!

IIRC pproblem of clearance is both for Velox/Verus & APR. I wonder if Touge Factory may work then, with inlets not behind foglamp intakes, but behind main rad bumperhole. There is also option of Porsche plastic wings that can be ziptied to control arm. Less effective, directs air to rotor from one side, instead of properly blowing inside, but saving grace is these porsche "ducts" are very cheap.

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An oil cooler would be a definite for me along with a temp and pressure gauge. The Porsche ducts are so cheap and easy to fit that they're probably worth it even if they don't do that much. For engine mounts the Sti ones would be my choice as you don't get too much extra nvh

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11 hours ago, maurice said:

Be careful, those brake ducts above require removal of the windscreen washer bottle, not very practical!

They look good though, from a functional POV. Aren't there smaller washer tanks available to get round that issue?

There's this one in fact: http://www.ptuning.com/subdir/itemdetail.cfm?PartNo=PTP-ENG-90075&MakeCode=scion&ModelCode=fr-s&ModelYear=2013-2016 All&ModelDesc=FRS

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