Wheel Advice

[Lauren 2259]

3 hours ago, GraemeI said:

Ahh, that makes more sense!  Thank you!  I guess you don't want to run without centre caps on the road all the time, but in competition it won't matter so much - less to fall off!!!

It really doesn't matter. I run TE37's which don't have centre caps, have done for over 80K miles. It's a non-issue. 

[GraemeI 41]

2 minutes ago, Lauren said:

They will hardly be stretched at all. 8.5" is better than 8" with a 225. I've run a 225/45/17 on my 8" TE37's. I didn't like it, too much sidewall flex, so I went back to a 215/45/17 which I've run ever since. 

Interesting - every site I looked at recommended minimums of 235 for the 8.5" wheel, with 215 for the 8"...  Thing is - 8.5" is also heavier  

At my age, you would have thought I would stop being so damn fussy!  I just don't like spending money twice so spend ages researching...

[GraemeI 41]

3 minutes ago, Lauren said:

It really doesn't matter. I run TE37's which don't have centre caps, have done for over 80K miles. It's a non-issue. 

Odd they say it's Competition Use only.  Guess I need to learn to speak Japanese, then I can ask them - lol

 

[Lauren 2259]

3 minutes ago, GraemeI said:

Interesting - every site I looked at recommended minimums of 235 for the 8.5" wheel, with 215 for the 8"...  Thing is - 8.5" is also heavier  

At my age, you would have thought I would stop being so damn fussy!  I just don't like spending money twice so spend ages researching...

LOL. Well I like my car to be sharp and I don't like sidewall flex so I run the minimum recommended width tyre for the width. I've spent ages looking at the Rays site but they don't make 17x8 TE37's anymore, so I can't buy anymore. My only option is to wait for another set or CE28's, to pop up. This may take years. If I could buy a new set, I would. 

[Mike 458]

2 hours ago, Lucas@PartBox said:

@GraemeI to make this easier for you, 

ZE40 17x7.5 - £2500

17x8 - 2600

17x9 - 2700

CE28SL 17x9 - £2370

Can you knock a 0 off the end?  As nice as they look, the ZE40s are more than double what I've spent on 2 and a half sets of wheels  

[Church 209]

I might be wrong, but IIRC semi-solid-forging of SSR Cs was not 1:1 classic forged. I'd rather position them strength wise closer to some MAT cast wheels. They are light, on par of top forged wheels weight, but i also heard stories that easy to bend. If you like that 6-thin-spoke design and searching such wheels, from currently still produced of that design IIRC there were Advan RG-D, and from "real forged" (but not made anymore, thus only available used, under several brands like Technicraft/Joustmeister/Neez Wolfsburg .., currently in TWS offering replaced by T66-F) of such design Taneisya T6 wheels (=TWS-forged).

[Lucas 244]

1 hour ago, GraemeI said:

I had wondered about your XXR's when I looked up the weight 

I have noticed quite a big difference to the way the car feels with my slightly lighter (than stock) wheels, which is why I wanted to get some that were lighter still.  It has almost eliminated the 'chattering' the stock car gets around corners on rippled roads.  I guess that could have been a combination of the Eibach springs with the lighter wheels.

As for the many other improvements, I am all ears!  Not all wallet mind you

Currently thinking suspension followed by some driver training to get most out of the car.  I just figured lighter and slightly wider wheels should come first, but always happy to learn (and be wrong!).

Might want to consider some nice anti roll bars, that's fairly cheap suspension upgrade. 

https://www.part-box.com/bsk020-whiteline-sway-bar-kit-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-12?search=Whiteline gt86&description=true

Can offer a generous discount as well 😉

[Lucas 244]

25 minutes ago, Lauren said:

LOL. Well I like my car to be sharp and I don't like sidewall flex so I run the minimum recommended width tyre for the width. I've spent ages looking at the Rays site but they don't make 17x8 TE37's anymore, so I can't buy anymore. My only option is to wait for another set or CE28's, to pop up. This may take years. If I could buy a new set, I would. 

They do 17x8.5 TE37SL 😊

[Lauren 2259]

Just now, Lucas@PartBox said:

They do 17x8.5 TE37SL 😊

It's not the same as 17x8 though is it? 

[Lucas 244]

Just now, Lauren said:

It's not the same as 17x8 though is it? 

Just another reason to try 225/35 or 225/40.. Elimination of sidewall flex and more grip! 

[Lauren 2259]

Just now, Lucas@PartBox said:

Just another reason to try 225/35 or 225/40.. Elimination of sidewall flex and more grip! 

I would if I didn't like the way my car handles just as it is. The last thing I'm going to do really is buy wheels in sizes I don't want. If it ain't broke, I don't fix it. 

[Lucas 244]

Just now, Lauren said:

I would if I didn't like the way my car handles just as it is. The last thing I'm going to do really is buy wheels in sizes I don't want. If it ain't broke, I don't fix it. 

Makes sense. Besides spending £2.5k just to test something is a bit much 

[Church 209]

Hence - "used". I got mine 17" T6 set for summer and 16" SSR Cs for winter for around 350-400eur each set .

[surrey86 352]

Can't beat a brand new set of Rays though. Lots of leaflets full of Japanese writing you've no hope of understanding, mmmm.

[GraemeI 41]

40 minutes ago, Lucas@PartBox said:

Might want to consider some nice anti roll bars, that's fairly cheap suspension upgrade. 

https://www.part-box.com/bsk020-whiteline-sway-bar-kit-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-12?search=Whiteline gt86&description=true

Can offer a generous discount as well 😉

Which is all great news - but I don’t know if I need it yet, or if it will indeed be an upgrade!

I figured I should get a baseline of handling with a damper setup that will work for road and track (I know it will be a compromise).  Then the plan is to get some car and driver training to make sure I understand how the car and I perform and then I can start tweaking chassis stiffness (and everything else!)

[will300 812]

Another option is 949 Racing wheels, they are 7.3KG each and a damn sight cheaper than Rays:

http://www.tegiwaimports.com/wheels/949-racing/949-racing-6ul-alloy-wheel-17-x-8-5x100-et40.html

However I'd be on Ray's if I had the money 

[Rich 378]

5 hours ago, GraemeI said:

I did consider them, but they were fairly pricy and not forged.  Not to mention I couldn't find any anywhere!

They are a good weight, not quite as good looking (always an opinion only), but still open to the idea if I can find some at the right price.

Not forged, but still as light as forged wheels. Really depends if you care about the manufacturing method or just the results.

I got mine from Sumo Power, about £1500 the set. That was pre-brexit though, so they'll be more expensive now.

[GraemeI 41]

2 hours ago, Rich said:

Not forged, but still as light as forged wheels. Really depends if you care about the manufacturing method or just the results.

I got mine from Sumo Power, about £1500 the set. That was pre-brexit though, so they'll be more expensive now.

Well put

The forged wheels are stronger and lighter, so the results are still most important  

The Wedsports are indeed light enough, but they reduce weight by making the rim really thin with their process, but the face/disc is still cast, so will never be as strong as the forged wheels.

Having said that, I am unlikely to be testing the limits of the strength unless I drive through an unseen pothole or something, at which point it probably won't matter anyway!

In short, I realise it's mostly just a technicality, which is why I haven't written them off.  They are still not cheap at £1500, but that's still £1000 less than the Rays!  Now if only I could find a used set........ 

[jevvy 40]

1 hour ago, GraemeI said:

Well put

The forged wheels are stronger and lighter, so the results are still most important  

The Wedsports are indeed light enough, but they reduce weight by making the rim really thin with their process, but the face/disc is still cast, so will never be as strong as the forged wheels.

Having said that, I am unlikely to be testing the limits of the strength unless I drive through an unseen pothole or something, at which point it probably won't matter anyway!

In short, I realise it's mostly just a technicality, which is why I haven't written them off.  They are still not cheap at £1500, but that's still £1000 less than the Rays!  Now if only I could find a used set........ 

I have a set of rays te37 17”et48 7.5j in original bronze but a little beat up and could do with a refurb

also have a set of rays te37 same size but 18 inch in grey. 

I don’t need two sets so I’d be willing to sell one  

https://imgur.com/a/QEmEJ

https://imgur.com/RGLL6P8

[Minion 132]

11 hours ago, Lucas@PartBox said:

Might want to consider some nice anti roll bars, that's fairly cheap suspension upgrade. 

https://www.part-box.com/bsk020-whiteline-sway-bar-kit-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-12?search=Whiteline gt86&description=true

Can offer a generous discount as well 😉

Can you get the 16mm adjustable rear anti roll bar?

[Lucas 244]

6 minutes ago, Minion said:

Can you get the 16mm adjustable rear anti roll bar?

https://www.part-box.com/965311b16-cusco-rear-sway-bar-16mm-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz?search=Gt86 16mm bar&description=true

[GraemeI 41]

5 hours ago, jevvy said:

I have a set of rays te37 17”et48 7.5j in original bronze but a little beat up and could do with a refurb

also have a set of rays te37 same size but 18 inch in grey. 

I don’t need two sets so I’d be willing to sell one  

https://imgur.com/a/QEmEJ

https://imgur.com/RGLL6P8

Thanks for the offer, but I already have 7.5” and wanted to go to 8 or slightly more 

[MikeB 79]

16 hours ago, KevinA said:

All true as you say, I have driven 86's on light wheels and there is quite a difference in feel. For me the cost of light wheels was going to buy a lot of other mods. But nail on the head " seat time with a good driver " is the best upgrade for sure.

I agree with Kev and might be worth going to some club meets so see how cars sit/look before you buy.

lots of pics on the forum of meets as well to get some ideas.

I run TSW Nurburgring 17x8 et 35 which are spun forged with 225 Advan 105’s fitted. I liked the look of them and were cheaper than Rays etc at the time.

MSW are made by OZ are nice option if on more of a budget.

[GraemeI 41]

On 11/11/2017 at 11:17 AM, MikeB said:

I agree with Kev and might be worth going to some club meets so see how cars sit/look before you buy.

lots of pics on the forum of meets as well to get some ideas.

I run TSW Nurburgring 17x8 et 35 which are spun forged with 225 Advan 105’s fitted. I liked the look of them and were cheaper than Rays etc at the time.

MSW are made by OZ are nice option if on more of a budget.

Thanks Mike.

I think I have spent more time looking at pictures than I care to admit!!  After all these conversations (and some prices!), I will probably look at sorting out the suspension first.  This will let me pay for some seat time with some experts instead which will improve my skills infinitely more than a set of wheels will!  

If I come across a great bargain in the interim, I may re-consider

 

[Church 209]

Imho worth browsing through wheel directory on american forum. When scrolling down there you see both pic of wheel+how it looks on car, with link ot thread about that wheel. See designs to ones liking, select which wheels also feature such, and then go for specifics, like sizing/offset/weight/how it's made/price/shop to buy :).