Guest Report post Posted February 9, 2015 Seam welding has two functions in my mind. It stiffens the shell as it prevents movement of the joints and it prevents the shell getting baggy. When you give the body a hard time with bigger tyres, harder suspension and more power, it will become "baggy", whereby all the seams get put under so much stress and load reversals they actually get loose. Did I really need to do all the seam welding around the tunnel? Probably not, but as I was already in there, I thought " I may as well". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tareim 343 Report post Posted February 9, 2015 thanks for the replies, now clued up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 12, 2015 I have had a couple of people asking what my engine spec will be, so I thought I'd list the parts i have so far, ready for the build after blueprinting. Standard new Subaru Gasket kit Carillo Forged H beam rods with CARRS bolts CP Forged Pistons. 10:1 CR ARP Head Studs ARP Mains bolts New Toyota Bearings Reimax Oil Pump Racer X Ali sump Deatschwerks 265ltr/hr fuel pump Threebond sealant Yet to come... Uprated valve springs Uprated roller rockers Uprated valves 700cc injectors I have had a torque plate made so the bores can be honed in a restrained condition. The engine will sit on Cusco engine mounts and will probably have an Xtreme twin plate Clutch and Flywheel. I am also going to have a Sequential Straight cut gearbox. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smudge 1020 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks Nige, very informative mate Sequential box will be interesting! Don't think I could cope with one on my daily ride, although the novelty would never wear off! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 This build is getting better and better! With the work that Nige is doing, and the specification the car is being built to, I hardly think it will qualify to be termed a daily ride Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Nige, a question for you. When you re-assemble the engine, will you just be torquing up the rod bolts, or will you be using a stretch gauge? The latter appears to be the preferred ARP method. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Nige, a question for you. When you re-assemble the engine, will you just be torquing up the rod bolts, or will you be using a stretch gauge? The latter appears to be the preferred ARP method. Unfortunately Dave I am unable to use a stretch gauge on my rods as the bolts are in blind holes. You are right though, stretching is by far the better way to go than using torque alone. That's what my research tells me anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Just been looking at the price of stretch gauges - around £200 Compared to the costs of a catastropic failure, I suppose it is worth it, though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks Nige, very informative mate Sequential box will be interesting! Don't think I could cope with one on my daily ride, although the novelty would never wear off! This won't be a daily driver Smudge. I'm currently considering buying a second '86 for that job. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sideways? 33 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Stretch is a better measure of torque, but like you, if you can't even use a stretch gauge because of the blind holes you'll have to go for the "normal" torque measurement method - just make sure the threads are clean and suitably lubricated/dry as specified in the instructions... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smudge 1020 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 This won't be a daily driver Smudge. I'm currently considering buying a second '86 for that job. I know it won't be, was just saying I wouldn't have one (despite really really really wanting one!) on my 86 as it's a daily Will you be doing anything about the driveshafts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Stretch is a better measure of torque, but like you, if you can't even use a stretch gauge because of the blind holes you'll have to go for the "normal" torque measurement method - just make sure the threads are clean and suitably lubricated/dry as specified in the instructions... Yeah, after all the fuss they make about using the stretch method they go and use blind holes on the FA20 rods!! What's more annoying is that Carillo couldn't even be bothered to reply to my mail!! Mark at Abbey got the answer for me. On this occasion they need to be coated with the supplied lubricant on the thread and under the head. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Just been looking at the price of stretch gauges - around £200 Compared to the costs of a catastropic failure, I suppose it is worth it, though. Make one Dave. It's only a clock and two points on a frame. You could even buy a second hand 1 to 2 inch pin mic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 12, 2015 I know it won't be, was just saying I wouldn't have one (despite really really really wanting one!) on my 86 as it's a daily Will you be doing anything about the driveshafts? I will be buying some uprated shafts, or making my own from the Lexus/Toyota parts bin. I would also like to have the bolt on flange at the inner end because diff removal on our cars is a comparative pain in the ass!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim Radley 18 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 I will be buying some uprated shafts, or making my own from the Lexus/Toyota parts bin. I would also like to have the bolt on flange at the inner end because diff removal on our cars is a comparative pain in the ass!! What about rear diff. I think they are junk personally. If you find a better one let me know please. Yeah, after all the fuss they make about using the stretch method they go and use blind holes on the FA20 rods!! What's more annoying is that Carillo couldn't even be bothered to reply to my mail!! Mark at Abbey got the answer for me. On this occasion they need to be coated with the supplied lubricant on the thread and under the head. So did they offer a torque setting then or not? I don't think using CARR bolts on torque alone is a great idea. Certainly i'd not reuse them without a stretch gauge. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 12, 2015 What about rear diff. I think they are junk personally. If you find a better one let me know please. So did they offer a torque setting then or not? I don't think using CARR bolts on torque alone is a great idea. Certainly i'd not reuse them without a stretch gauge. Cusco, OS Giken, Quaife, HKS, M Factory, all better than stock apparently. As for the bolts, I'll measure them, torque them and measure them again. If they stretch more than .001" in free state I'll be having a chat with Carillo. It's a shame they have the blind holes, but they are by far the best rod for this engine in my opinion. (Based on research rather than experience) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark@Abbey M/S 235 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Rear driveshafts just buy off the shelf from the Driveshaft shop in the US. Done deal Carrs bolts as long as you line them right and don't over torque them they will be fine no troubles at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Rear driveshafts just buy off the shelf from the Driveshaft shop in the US. Done deal In stock at Fensport - no need to import http://www.fensport.co.uk/Parts/Model_108/Category_3/4964 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark@Abbey M/S 235 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Even better! :-) 1 Pitman reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Rear driveshafts just buy off the shelf from the Driveshaft shop in the US. Done deal Carrs bolts as long as you line them right and don't over torque them they will be fine no troubles at all. Thanks for the words of confidence Mark. Is buying off the shelf the most cost effective way of replacing the shafts?? Is there a UK supplier, I would imagine the shipping will be a killer? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks for the words of confidence Mark. Is buying off the shelf the most cost effective way of replacing the shafts?? Is there a UK supplier, I would imagine the shipping will be a killer? Yes, see my post above 1 Sideways? reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 13, 2015 There have been comments on another thread that I'm dragging my heels on this thread... :P So, I thought I'd better get my arse in gear and get some pics up for you all.. Remember those Spark plug access tubes.. they're welded in now. I left them proud on the wheel side of the rail so it will resist crap going in the holes..And the inside..Now, we're gonna need all the room we can get on the inside to get the coil packs off and out of the engine bay, so the insides were dressed back and the edges given a small radius.I'll get the rest of the seam welding done in the engine bay this weekend so there'll be plenty of pics for you all. I also want to do a back to back comparison review of the stock oil pump with the Reimax one tomorrow, but am unsure where I should put it?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Could you not get a grommet for them to prevent crap going in them? Not that it's particularly an issue. Unlikely they will get blocked Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark-in-Stoke 488 Report post Posted February 13, 2015 Ahh that's better! thanks Nige Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted February 14, 2015 Well, after a couple of months wait my Reimax oil pump finally arrived on Thursday. OK, so you ask yourself, why have I bought an aftermarket oil pump for my brand new engine?? Simple, I have read about the stock pump giving up at high revs, and even one website that (Wrongly) claimed FI makes the stock pump fail?? Don't let that worry you, the oil pump couldn't care less if the engine has FI or not!!Here we can see the two pumps side by side, standard on the left.My biggest worry with the stock pump is the fact that it is sintered, whereas the Reimax pump is made from billet steel, so is less likely to break. You may also have noticed there is a much larger pocket on the Reimax pump, along with different internal forming on the outer ring. I have never seen a pump before with this form, and cannot understand why Subaru made it that way??Each one of these pockets,12 in the stock pump and 9 in the Reimax picks up a "lump" of oil from the sump and pushes it down the main gallery to the oil filter. So, the Reimax only picks up 9 lots of oil per rev and the stock pump picks up 12 lots of oil per rev. The capacity of each pocket on the stock pump is 1.1cc whereas the Reimax is 1.6cc. basically the Reimax is moving 1.2cc more oil per rev, which at, say, 5000rpm is an extra 6 litres of oil per minute!!So, how did I measure the pockets.. with a syringe, some blu tack and a strong flat magnet. I put the magnet on the back of the pump gears and then positioned the centre piece accordingly. The sides were stuffed with blu tack and then oil was used to fill the gap until level at the top. The oil missing from the syringe is the capacity of the pocket.I have also posted this on the mechanical thread, so one may get removed if the admin don't like double posts?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
